Another build thread (many photos)

Discussion in 'Chit-Chat' started by Magnethead, Dec 4, 2016.

  1. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    I forgot to put a thread here due to the various states/stabilities of the forum.

    I have a thread going on the dodge forum, so I'm just going to copy bits and pieces over.

    Cliffnotes: The truck has a V6 with 181,000 miles on it. Transmission internally detonated for the 3rd time. Picked up a 5.9 from junkyard for $250 with 101,000 miles, and converting to GM racing transmission. Moved the battery to the bed, moved the evaporative/emissions system (under stock battery tray) inside the fender.

    I'm also converting from mopar to GM power steering pump, since the GM unit is much smaller. The V8 is a long term build, so i'm working with the V6 while building the V8 up. V8 will have a remote-mounted water pump, to save space.

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    Last edited: Dec 4, 2016
  2. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    So here's where I am at right now.

    I need to order the ATI balancer - Monday 11/5 (ATI direct, $400) # 918605

    I need to order the MSD box - Monday 11/5 (Amazon, $350)

    I need the reservoir and charge hose off a Jeep JK - Monday 11/5 (Dealer Items: 68078355AF & 52126151AG) ($60)

    I need to purchase 20 feet of red 8 gauge for cabin power run - Monday 11/5

    I need to make and install the amplifier bypass harness, and remove the amplifier. - Tuesday 11/6

    I need to order the PDC brackets from HiPoTek - Monday 11/12 , $130

    I need to order the MSD coil - Monday 11/12 (Amazon, $200)

    I need to receive the V8 motor mounts from Richard at Hi-Po-Tek and attach them to the engine - Wednesday 12/14 ???

    I need to order the Altronics SHIFT module - Tuesday 01/03 (Altronics Direct, $650)

    I need to pay for & pick up cylinder heads from Mike Moriarty - Monday 01/09 ??? ($500 down, $700 due)

    I need to order a transmission crossmember from HiPoTek - Monday 01/16 ($250)

    I need to order a powerglide transmission - Monday 02/06 ($2800ish)

    I need to purchase an intake manifold - March/April ? ($600)

    I need to source a 4150 SLE/throttle stop mount, else will have to run a 4500 TB with adapter. - March/April ?

    I need to purchase a 4 barrel throttle body (probably Accufab, FAST's provider). - March/April ? ($600)

    I need to check the resistance of the front speakers, disconnect the tweeters if necessary.

    I need to re-deadtime the V6 and use the new swiss-cheesed bracket to get the crank sensor to line up.

    I need to swap the steering plumbing over from the P pump to the TC pump.

    I need to measure out the belt length for the power steering pump

    I need to run the 8-gauge power line from the fender tap, into the cab and to the power distribution system in the back of the cab

    I need to wire up the transmission cooler fan to the ASD relay tap in the cab

    I need to wire up the water pump to the relay panel

    I need to wire up the radiator fan harness under the hood

    I need to wire up the radiator fan harness to the relay panel

    I need to fabricate a better mount for the switch panel

    I need to cut the steel transmission cooler line and turn it around to feed to the transmission cooler, and remove the remnants from under the engine

    I need to design an an engine cradle that will balance the engine and also allow for the powerglide to bolt on

    I need to notch the rear chassis crossmember and route a mock-up fill tube from the factory fuel filler to the projected fuel cell location.

    I need to find a suitable mounting location for the MSD box, preferably in place of the infinity amp.

    I need to look at the throttle pedal and see what it will take for Morse throttle conversion.

    I need to remove the factory cruise control switches and swap in my modified ones (shifter interface).

    I need to drill the top cover of the steering wheel for a new control button (line lock).

    I need to order a retractile cord for steering wheel buttons.

    I need to remove the cruise control solenoids and system and cap off the vacuum port.

    I need to modify the bumper brackets and get the bumper properly mounted. - (4) 3/8" x 1.5" + Fender Wash + Nylock

    I need to get a scirocco aluminum radiator

    I need to fabricate mounts for said radiator

    I need to purchase the remote water pump

    I need to fabricate a mount for the remote water pump and ignition coil where the cruise control servo used to be.

    I need to design the tone ring for the V8 and send it to the laser shop with 2 more water pump plates

    I need to purchase an air hat for the throttle body to determine water inlet clearance.

    I need to figure out what i'm doing with the AC condenser

    I need to purchase a rotating assembly and take it in for balancing

    I need to add injectors 7 and 8 to the V6 harness, using the donor V8 harness.

    I need to measure the resistive value of the ABS solenoids, and make a dummy harness for the ABS computer to not throw the dash light.

    ----

    First race is March 11th. I might have the truck usable by then with the V6 and glide. No idea.
     
    DanicaFreak likes this.
  3. DUN24

    DUN24 Skeptical of the Spectacle

    Yesssss another build thread. You have a lot of sh!t to do.

    What's good with the dragster?
     
  4. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Didn't do very well this year, DNQ'd once and lots of transmission issues. Ended up shelling the trans on the workbench and attacking it with a dremel. Dad wants to build a new motor but funding isn't there, been looking hard at a nitrous kit, probably throw 250 worth on it. Everybody else is getting faster and we DNQ'd one race, #17 in a 16 car field. Missed it 4.800 to 4.801 on the qualifying sheet.

    MSD came already, as well as the audio adapters. Idea is to remove the factory amplifier and put the MSD in it's place, in the passenger footwell behind the plastic kick panel. Also ordered the harmonic balancer from ATI on my lunch break for $450. Going to wait a minute and let funds build back up before the next round of expensive purchases.

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  5. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Idea is that i'm keeping the truck "Stock Appearing". All the electronics/wiring will be hidden, mostly under the rear bench seat, MSD in the kickpanel, switch panel mounted to the driver's seat under my knees, and down those lines. Keeping the factory inconspicuous hood, only telltales should be the power switch on the bumper and the battery box in the bed.
     
  6. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Is this going to be a driver or track only?
     
  7. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Depends on how much I turn the magic knob. I can't reveal ALLLL my secrets ;)
     
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  8. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    So apparently the same guy in charge of several other complicated bolts was also in charge of the infinity amplifier. It's held in by 3 13/32 bolts, and the top one is behind the blower motor. What a genius he was!!!!

    Alas, I did get it out.

    Got the 8 gauge cables made up, and ring terminals in the truck. Just need to throw my jacket on and wipe out a couple items on that to-do list. O'R didn't have 8AWG to 3/8 rings, so I had to get 1/2" rings. Should work just fine. Soldered the rings on all 3 cables. One of the fused leads is for the radiator fan. Picked up a 50 amp MAXI fuse for the cab power lead and 60 amp for the radiator fan.

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  9. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Cab wiring done. Had a fire in the intake while testing the front crank trigger so I'm gonna abandon that idea and do a work-around. Ordered more parts and visited with the machine shop to get a game plan. Old schooler, thinks we can vat, line-hone, deck, and bore the block for around $500. I'm cool with that, just need the money.

    I just need to draw up a part in CAD, do some 1:1 prints, order material, and send it all to the laser shop.

    The ignition coil should be here this week, at which point I should have everything I need to be able to get wires ran and get the game plan rolling. I can pop the cruise control out and start on a bracket for the coil and water pump (which I don't have, but I have an idea of how it mounts). I can cut down the hydraulic hose on the steering reservoir and get that all mounted up next wheel when the PDC brackets arrive, get the power steering plumbed up. I'm seeking out junk AC compressor and alternator for mock-up purposes since the ATI balancer is here. I already have the tensioner pulley, so the belt on the truck now will fit (the P/S pump is my custom bracket that i can make fit anything).

    MSD box needs to mount with some aluminum flat bar, no big deal.

    I also need to hit a junkyard and see about fetching a durango center console, and swap out my jumpseat console.

    I was also tipped off to a mod of moving the EVAP canister from under the cab to behind a rear tire. There's no electronics, only hoses going to it, so it's a straight forward modification other than coming up with a mounting system.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2016
  10. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Soldered up the steering wheel button harness.

    Have had several threads going on the Dakota facebook group, think i found a solution for my cooling system.

    180 stat, drilled with SIX 1/4" holes (functional flow area of a 5/8 hose), bypass port in the intake plugged, and Tee the heater hose into the lower radiator hose using a custom TIG welded tee with 10AN fitting and 10AN push-lok connection.

    That will minimize the hydraulic load on the water pump, as well as the amount of hoses running through the engine bay.

    The motor mounts came in and I got them mounted to the block. What sucks is that one of the holes that the passenger side uses, is the one that has a bolt broken off in it (and 2 easy-outs in said bolt). So i'm going to have to weld up some plate to make it reach the other bolts. Minor setback, but oh well.

    I designed the crank flange spacer in CAD and did a test print to make sure it matches up. I also designed up a midplate, but it's too big to print. All I can do is measure mine to make sure it matches, and hope it works.

    I wanted to get some stuff done on the truck, but we found some big anomalies in the cylinder heads on the dragster, so we tore it down all the way. It's on a tight deadline to be done by February, so i'm taking the heads in for a rebuild on monday.

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  11. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    I couldn't find a crank flange drawing, so here you go, Google. Threw the adapter on my scanner and overlayed a protractor.

    Chrysler Mopar 6 bolt crankshaft flange bolt pattern

    3.4448 bolt circle, 7/16 holes, two sets on 60 degree spread, one offset by 35 degrees, and one offset by 45 degrees.

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    DUN24 likes this.
  12. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    First day above freezing, so i got some work done. Pulled the custom tone ring off and installed the PDC brackets yesterday, also cut the new power steering hose to length. Need a 12AN straight push lok, the 45 I bought won't work on the V6 (but it will for the V8). Pulled the cruise control servo off, and also cut and re-routed the transmission pressure line and pulled the remnants of the factory line out. I need to re-hose clamp it and put the shifter cable back on, but i ran out of "safe time" of dad being gone (field service tech, never know how long his calls are).

    I intended to measure out the wire length to re-route the downstream O2's to behind the main cat, but I didn't get a chance to. Same with measuring the bracket to mount the MSD.

    But at this point, with the factory trans line gone, I can put the radiator fan back in and complete it's wiring (which is sitting on my floor). I also pulled the ABS solenoid wire off, so that I can start the process of getting those dummy loaded out.

    I also sent the CAD files to the laser shop and ordered the material. I just need to pick up the material when it's ready, and transport it to the laser shop.

    The 4x16 wire came today for doing the O2 extensions, along with O2 bungs and plugs and the band clamp. I just need to take it to one of our racers that TIG welds to put it together.
     
  13. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Ended up with a 6K602 belt. It's a wee bit tight, a 607 or 612 would be better. Plumbed the power steering pressure sides, just need to get some 3/8 hydraulic hose and a barb to extend the return line to the can, and mount the can.

    All under hood wiring is done for the moment. The switch panel/relay board is wired up and working, able to run the water pump and fan. Everything is loomed up, I just need to cut zip ties.

    Interior is almost inhabitable again now, with the radiator fan out of there. I have a center console picked out at LKQ that I need to go get, hopefully it is the kind I want, they wouldn't send me a photo. That would let me get working on the interior electrical.

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  14. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    This is a conversion from the factory Saginaw "P" pump to the Saginaw "TC", or Type 2, pump. The pump is physically smaller, uses a sealed ball bearing instead of a brass bushing, and allows for a remote reservoir. They came on many Jeep engines and LS engines, in varying forms.

    No whining at all, took about 3/4 quart to fill and bleed it. It feels good with the wheels in the air, no hard spots at all. I didn't try to turn them on the ground.

    The pump does show signs of trying to move inward when I rap the throttle, so it definitely needs a front strap of some sort. It's very minimal, plus it's still missing the top spacer (for all i know, the bottom might not be tight either!). Alas, it does at least run.



    Long explanation -> http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-dakota/399371-power-steering-pump-conversion.html

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  15. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    I picked up an ABS module for $20 at the junkyard, and proceeded to dremel the living crap out of it. It looked like it had been snowing on the workbench.

    Alas, the results. I'm still not sure if that sensor is supposed to be grounded or what. That's all that I can figure, but in default state it's not grounded. I'm going to take the pigtail and throw some resistors on it, and see if that makes the CAB happy. Each solenoid is measuring at about 5 ohms.

    the pressure switch on the proportioning valve is grounded when pressurized, open when released. It's an all plastic fitting, not a tapered pipe thread. I don't have a 9/16 socket in the house to bust the sensor out of the RWAL unit, but i'm wondering if it is the same.

    Both fittings appear to be 1/4" tube with 7/16" inverted flare nuts. Plan is to put an adjustable proportioning valve in place of the ABS module, remove the factory proportioning valve completely, and plumb a line-lock into the front line where the factory valve was.

    White - solenoid #1 Positive

    Blue - center sensor

    Black - Both Solenoid common Ground

    Green - Solenoid #2 Positive

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  16. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Went to LKQ and picked up the center console out of a 02 Durango, to replace my center jumpseat/mini-console. Unbolted the main seats, laid them back in the cab, unbolted the center seat, then took each seat out of the cab. Grabbed the shop vac, cleaned the floor, put the console in, put a seat in, trimmed everything to fit, same with other side, then bolted everything down.

    Plan is to put the delay box inside, and possibly the switch panel if I can make it fit.

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  17. DanicaFreak

    DanicaFreak Green monster

    Thank you so much for sharing this. LOVE LOVE this build. We will need to see pics of the finished product doing an @BobbyFord esq burn out... :D
     
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  18. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    The V6 with powerglide might be too tall of a gear to do much, but once the V8 is done and swapped, all bets are off.
     
    DanicaFreak likes this.
  19. Bucky Badger

    Bucky Badger Go Kyle Go

    Great job
     
  20. TexasRaceLady

    TexasRaceLady Plank Owner Contributor

    One good thing, working on the truck and dragster will keep Mag out of any mischief. hehehe

    I love the pics, Mag. Looking good.
     
    Bucky Badger likes this.
  21. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Next project is to service the brakes on all 4 corners, starting at the master cylinder. I need to plumb a line lock into the front brake line, and take out the defective rear ABS circuit in favor of a proportioning valve. It looks easy on paper, but thanks to detroit mixing metric and standard fittings, I have no idea what I will be getting into until I crack the lines. Then i'll have the fun job of bleeding them all.
     
  22. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Get an inexpensive pressure bleeder. Adjustable prop valve should be easy to incorporate. Get a good bender and a good flaring tool and just use the existing fittings. Unplug the rear speed sensor on the ABS and the system should revert and disable the anti-lock feature.
    This is a great, easy to use flaring tool from Summit
    https://m.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70081
    Summit also has various fittings as I'm sure you know.
     
  23. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    The fittings and lines isn't hard, it's just the re-flaring from metric bubble to english Inverted Flare. At least they were nice enough to use standard 3/16 line.

    I already made a dummy load harness (if i unplug the unit, the ABS light comes on the dash). The electrical side has not been hard on this truck at all, seeing as I have the 1500 page factory service manual.
     
  24. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    The ABS light comes on to let you know that the ABS feature is disabled. It stops the pump and simply acts like a non-ABS brake system.
    There are different adapters available for that flare tool that don't normally come in the kit.
     
  25. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Well, I got the rear ABS solenoid housing pulled. Pulled the lines, cut the metric flares and nuts off, and replaced with english nut and inverted flare. Got everything back together, now the back brakes just need to be bled.

    I'm going to see how it behaves after doing that, before deciding if I will leave the factory balance valve in place before installing the front line-lock.
     
  26. DanicaFreak

    DanicaFreak Green monster

    WIth all the time this build is taking, Mags has a new girl in his life-Frankentruck. :p
    Taking all of this time and $$$$
     
    Magnethead likes this.
  27. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    bled the brakes, 4 times on both side with proportioning valve wide open. Pedal is firm, but still cant tell how much rear braking there is. Took the RWAL valve apart and it was full of trash, so at least that part has been justified.

    Now i'm debating if I should just say F it and take the factory proportioning valve out, or not. The truck is nose-diving hard under braking at low speed, like the backs aren't contributing very much. The push-through RPM did come up about 200 so there's some improvement. It just seems like there should be more braking power than there is.
     
  28. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Dad pulled the oil pan off the dragster while i was doing brakes on the truck. Also, a video from yesterday before I yanked the ABS module.



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  29. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Dropped off the $1800 down payment on the transmission. $1400 for half-down of the trans and $400 for the mopar bell housing. Have a to-buy list going at Jegs to remove all of the factory brake components in the front circuit and replace with aftermarket fittings. Just not sure i want to pull the trigger on that $40 of goods.
     
  30. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Status Update:

    ---------- Purchasing/Obtaining:

    I need to order the Altronics SHIFT module - 02/03 ? (Altronics Direct, $650)

    I need to pay for & pick up cylinder heads from Mike Moriarty - Sunday 01/08 ??? ($500 down, $700 due)

    I need to order a transmission crossmember from HiPoTek - Monday 01/16 ($250)

    I need to source/fabricate a 4150 SLE/throttle stop mount - March/April ? ( 4500 is 5.375, 4150 is 5.625 bolt space)

    I need to purchase a 4 barrel throttle body (probably Accufab, FAST's provider). - March/April ? ($600)

    I need to order the WEGO IIID and dual-reading gauge: http://www.veisystems.com/ws/wideban...o-monitor.html

    I need to purchase the remote water pump

    ---------- Labor Items:

    I need to fabricate a better mount for the switch panel - Subject to new center console (put inside?)

    I need to design an an engine cradle that will balance the engine and also allow for the powerglide to bolt on

    I need to remove the factory cruise control switches and swap in my modified ones (shifter interface).

    I need to modify the bumper brackets and get the bumper properly mounted.

    I need to fabricate a mount for the remote water pump and ignition coil where the cruise control servo used to be.

    ---------- Stuff for V8 swap:

    I need to purchase an intake manifold - May/June ? ($600)

    I need to notch the rear chassis crossmember and route a mock-up fill tube from the factory fuel filler to the projected fuel cell location.

    I need to look at the throttle pedal and see what it will take for Morse throttle conversion.

    I need to get a scirocco aluminum radiator

    I need to fabricate mounts for said radiator

    I need to purchase an air hat for the throttle body to determine water inlet clearance.

    I need to figure out what i'm doing with the AC condenser

    I need to purchase a rotating assembly and request the company to balance it (likely SCAT)

    I need to take the block in for machining

    I need to add injectors 7 and 8 to the V6 harness, using the donor V8 harness.

    Extend the O2 extensions to relocate downstream O2's behind main cat [prepare for Y-pipe/pre-cat deletion)
     
  31. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Looks like I will be needing to wire up 2 more relays, and get a pair of 9 position barrier strips.

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    Last edited: Dec 30, 2016
  32. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    I ordered a 5 pack of 12 position barrier strips to match the other's I've been using, and I had a 16 position just paying around.

    I popped the power outlet out of the front cover of the durango console, so i can use that opening to run all the power lines.

    I intended to get stuff done yesterday, but helped dad on the dragster instead. We're putting a 150 wet kit on it.

    The powerglide I'm getting should be about 27" tip to tail, compared to the 42RE at 37.5 inches. So I'll have to get the driveshaft re-tubed 10" longer.

    I did talk to Ryan, and our thoughts right now is to use a 2.5 bar MAP sensor for maximum resolution over the range that we will be using, which will restrict me to about 20 pounds of boost. Instead of going off into uncharted territory, he suggested that I look at plumbing in a 150 wet shot instead (which would really be more of a 75 shot pre-boost). He also suggested to use the INDY MOD-MAN manifold for a good combination of throttle response and high RPM boost-feeding. Considering that 4BBL M1's are going for $600 new or used, $1500 for the MOD-MAN including fuel rails and FAST throttle body isn't that bad, and having the larger plenum volume will allow for equalized fuel delivery at high RPM under heavy boost.

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  33. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    I went out and switched the steering wheel buttons and harness. After talking to Fred at Altronics, I'm going to make both wheel buttons be for upshift, and add a button on top left (hard to accidentally hit) for downshift. Reason being is that there's not a downshift lockout, so accidentally hitting that button can do bad things.

    I haven't decided where I want to put the transbrake button yet, but I'm leaning towards on top of the wheel on the right.

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  34. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Got the wiring harness installed in the durango console and all the wiring ran out the back. Ran power/ground and the accessory wires.

    Also tapped the reverse light harness, but have not tested functionality of it or the NS tap yet.

    Picked up the heads and cam from Mike Moriarty tonight, as well as the Mopar/Powerglide bellhousing. The holes on the midplate are pretty close but i'll have to drill 2 of them out I think. I won't know for sure till I bolt them together. I also have to see what the situation is with the starter. I'll be getting the transmission at our racer's banquet on Saturday.
     
  35. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Picked up the bellhousing. The midplate i designed looks like it will fit, I just need to open up the dowel openings a hair to the inside. Bolt holes seem okay. I'll have to cut the midplate and notch the bellhousing for the crank sensor.

    Also picked up a CC-1 delay box for crazy cheap ($100 with a $600 retail tag...somebody's trailer spare) which is awesome, so i wired it up.

    I have the dash torn apart right now so that I could get to the main harness for the reverse lights tap, which i've been too busy to check out. I need to get the retracile cord ran for the steering wheel buttons and test out the reverse light and neutral safety circuits before I can button up the dash.

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  36. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    I was able to test the reverse light and neutral safety taps today, verified that both work as I anticipated. Now I need to pull the steering column apart to do the wheel button cord, and run the wires for those taps.

    Drew out the bracket for the transbrake button and completed alot of the work for the switch panel and delay box.

    Was supposed to pick up the trans at the banquet tonight, but things didn't work out. So off to plan B. I'll get it later this week, and take advantage of the spare time to get the V8 off the engine stand and onto a temporary fixture so that I can mock up the midplate and bellhousing and clean up any mis-aligned holes.

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  37. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Got some more wiring done today. N/S and Reverse light wiring is done, got the modified wheel button harness in, ran the retracile cord for the wheel buttons, and mounted the downshift button (top right of wheel). I need to add a barrier strip down at the bottom of the dash, then run wiring from there to the barrier strip in the console. Also need to cut, drill, and place the bracket for the transbrake button.

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  38. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    I'm exhausted. Long work day, got home, pulled the engine off the stand, got it down on cinder blocks, drilled out the dowels on the midplate (shave over 1/2" and had to oblong .05 inward), stabbed it on, trans was delivered, stabbed the belhousing on, and mated them. Marked where it needs notching for the crank sensor...and I'm done for the evening.

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    2 Sweet likes this.
  39. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    Started with a 1/8" hole, then 3/8, then 1/2". Then took the sawzall to it. It's not quite deep enough, needs another tenth of an inch or so all the way around. Then I need to modify the midplate.

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    DanicaFreak and 2 Sweet like this.
  40. Magnethead

    Magnethead Admin & Resident Techie Staff Member

    More progress. MSD bracket needs to be drilled for mounting bolt. Midplate is ready for welding.

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    Clutch likes this.

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