Or better yet, Electrical Engineers?
I'm studying to me an ME. However, I'm working on my generation 2 robot (which may also turn into a college project, if it lasts all the way to my senior project) and would like somebody to look over my schematics for the steering system.
motors: http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=722
Battery: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXULN3&P=0
Diodes: http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...iode&origkw=rectifier+diode&parentPage=search
input will actually be ESC, so the inputs will be alternating for left/right turning
It's a centering and crab/counter steer steering selection system. Turning means when counter-steering, locked is while turning, centered is when the wheels are set straight center, reversed is for crab steer.
Also, if you can't tell from the drawings, the switches are SPDT. But the ones I have put common in the center instead of on the end. I'm going to bend the lever on the unsuspended end a little so that the cam shaped lobe on the steering arm will actuate it (SW2).
Here's the version I hand drew, digitized and animated. You may have to right click > pause to review it.
Because the rear axle will be backwards compared to the front two, I'm not expecting the steer stops to work on the rear axle under crab steer, though it would be nice if they did. If nothing else, i can reverse the 2 diodes and/or motor leads on the rear axle, and see if that fixes any issues. But crab steer really doesnt need steer stops, because I dont think i'll ever need the full 20 degrees to crab walk, though would be nice. Guess i'll have to wait and see once it's built.
http://magnethead794.com/self-steer2.swf
The easy thing to do would to use a pair of 4PDT relays to replace switch sets 1 and 3 (the center one I forgot to label is a switch 3).
Switch Set 1 is the center lock/unlock. Having seperate switches prevents voltage cross-talk in case of unsyncronized centering. Could also use 3 poles of a 4PDT relay.
Switch Set 2 is the centering switches- when Switch Sets 1 and 2 are activated, they cut power to their respective motors. When Switch Set 1 is left engaged and Switch Set 2 are tripped, the motors still receive power.
Switch Set 3 is the reversing and center activation switches. An Alternative would be to use 3 poles of a 4PDT relay
Switch Set 4 is the steering angle lock switches. They cut power to their respective motors in the direction of lock, but allow power to flow in the reverse direction.
In all switches, center is Common, bottom is Normally Closed, and top is Normally Open.
I'm studying to me an ME. However, I'm working on my generation 2 robot (which may also turn into a college project, if it lasts all the way to my senior project) and would like somebody to look over my schematics for the steering system.
motors: http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=722
Battery: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXULN3&P=0
Diodes: http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...iode&origkw=rectifier+diode&parentPage=search
input will actually be ESC, so the inputs will be alternating for left/right turning
It's a centering and crab/counter steer steering selection system. Turning means when counter-steering, locked is while turning, centered is when the wheels are set straight center, reversed is for crab steer.
Also, if you can't tell from the drawings, the switches are SPDT. But the ones I have put common in the center instead of on the end. I'm going to bend the lever on the unsuspended end a little so that the cam shaped lobe on the steering arm will actuate it (SW2).
Here's the version I hand drew, digitized and animated. You may have to right click > pause to review it.
Because the rear axle will be backwards compared to the front two, I'm not expecting the steer stops to work on the rear axle under crab steer, though it would be nice if they did. If nothing else, i can reverse the 2 diodes and/or motor leads on the rear axle, and see if that fixes any issues. But crab steer really doesnt need steer stops, because I dont think i'll ever need the full 20 degrees to crab walk, though would be nice. Guess i'll have to wait and see once it's built.
http://magnethead794.com/self-steer2.swf
The easy thing to do would to use a pair of 4PDT relays to replace switch sets 1 and 3 (the center one I forgot to label is a switch 3).
Switch Set 1 is the center lock/unlock. Having seperate switches prevents voltage cross-talk in case of unsyncronized centering. Could also use 3 poles of a 4PDT relay.
Switch Set 2 is the centering switches- when Switch Sets 1 and 2 are activated, they cut power to their respective motors. When Switch Set 1 is left engaged and Switch Set 2 are tripped, the motors still receive power.
Switch Set 3 is the reversing and center activation switches. An Alternative would be to use 3 poles of a 4PDT relay
Switch Set 4 is the steering angle lock switches. They cut power to their respective motors in the direction of lock, but allow power to flow in the reverse direction.
In all switches, center is Common, bottom is Normally Closed, and top is Normally Open.