I'm starting to understand why GM...

HoneyBadger

HoneyBadger

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... needed a bailout.

Since October, I've owned two different cars and have spent 60% of the time without a car.

Several part failures on the Toyota (all linked to ONE problem Toyota refused to acknowledge) cost me well over $1,000.

On the Buick, I've already had to replace two intake manifolds and now the fuel pump has gone out.

This comes one week after my camera had to be taken to a shop, my TV had to be taken apart, my computer had to be taken apart and my tablet stopped charging.
 
What year,model and engine code is the Buick? Build date would help also.
 
It's called 'forced obsolescence' Andy.

Car practicality and coolness peaked in 1964. Everything since has been window dressing.

Good luck.
 

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97forever said:
It's called 'forced obsolescence' Andy.

Car practicality and coolness peaked in 1964. Everything since has been window dressing.

Good luck.
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I agree. It's amazing how many cars from the 1960s and before are still running, and how someone with a 90s or 2000s car has to put the total value of their car in to maintenance each year. What's even worse is the service by these companies.

I've been stuck with a broken phone, because Apple waited until after the warranty expired to acknowledge the possibility that the thing was broke. Toyota refused to acknowledge what was broken in my car and it caused a ton of problems. These companies build ****** products, then refuse to admit their products have the possibility of dying. Guess what? Everything dies eventually.

It's all about the bottom line.
 
AndyMarquisLive said:
I agree. It's amazing how many cars from the 1960s and before are still running, and how someone with a 90s or 2000s car has to put the total value of their car in to maintenance each year. What's even worse is the service by these companies.

I've been stuck with a broken phone, because Apple waited until after the warranty expired to acknowledge the possibility that the thing was broke. Toyota refused to acknowledge what was broken in my car and it caused a ton of problems. These companies build ****** products, then refuse to admit their products have the possibility of dying. Guess what? Everything dies eventually.

It's all about the bottom line.
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It's important to join car clubs. It's not just for the comradery buts to help keep your cars running without having to get screwed by the dealerships. I drive a 1992 Taurus SHO and I'm a member of SHOforum.com. On that site when ever I have an issue with my car I can go to the forum and find what to do or look for when I have a problem. I've been to other car club sites and have seen sub-forums on trouble shooting, so find a car club for whatever your driving and find out what others have done to fix things.
 
blue92 said:
It's important to join car clubs. It's not just for the comradery buts to help keep your cars running without having to get screwed by the dealerships. I drive a 1992 Taurus SHO and I'm a member of SHOforum.com. On that site when ever I have an issue with my car I can go to the forum and find what to do or look for when I have a problem. I've been to other car club sites and have seen sub-forums on trouble shooting, so find a car club for whatever your driving and find out what others have done to fix things.
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Same here with my dakota. Got an ECU, bumper, throttle body, sensors, wiring adapters, you name it from dodgeforum.com
 
Two intakes in the 3-4 months since you bought the Buick? IIRC that fuel pump is in the tank and unless you want to write another rant about cheap junk fuel pumps DON'T buy one from AutoZone. BTDT.

Magic, you owe me a keyboard.....:D
 
SST55 said:
Two intakes in the 3-4 months since you bought the Buick? IIRC that fuel pump is in the tank and unless you want to write another rant about cheap junk fuel pumps DON'T buy one from AutoZone. BTDT.

Magic, you owe me a keyboard.....:D
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I go to Advance... have had good luck with them. Everything that broke in the Toyota was all linked to one problem that Toyota refused to acknowledge.
 
Replaced the fuel pump, filter, ignotion switch, spark plugs and it still won't start.

GM says it's the theft deterrant system, which prevents the car from starting to prevent theft. It goes bad all the time and would prevent the on board computer from working, fuel pump from starting and prevent the fuel ignition from working and prevents the car from starting even with the right keys in the ignition.

Last GM product I ever buy. From now on, it's Ford or Toyota for me.
 
AndyMarquisLive said:
Replaced the fuel pump, filter, ignotion switch, spark plugs and it still won't start.

GM says it's the theft deterrant system, which prevents the car from starting to prevent theft. It goes bad all the time and would prevent the on board computer from working, fuel pump from starting and prevent the fuel ignition from working and prevents the car from starting even with the right keys in the ignition.

Last GM product I ever buy. From now on, it's Ford or Toyota for me.
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What does autozone say the codes are? Or do you have a personal scanner like I do? My computer quit a couple months ago, got a new one from all computer resources.

I don't know if it's because mine is a truck, but I can hear the fuel pump priming the system before I start the engine. I also have a fuel pressure gauge that I can put on the fuel rail. Stick an INSULATED screw driver in a spark plug boot and ground it. That tells you if you have fuel and spark. It's kinda obvious if you have air or not. Have a multimeter that reads frequency? Find the cam position or crank position sensor, and check it's output, should read 3 times per revolution for a 6er and 4 times per rev for an 8er. That way you know the computer is getting the signal (this is if it doesnt have spark, obviously).

All shadetree mechanic things you can do in the driveway. I've done all of the above fighting different issues on my truck.
 
Magnethead said:
What does autozone say the codes are? Or do you have a personal scanner like I do? My computer quit a couple months ago, got a new one from all computer resources.

I don't know if it's because mine is a truck, but I can hear the fuel pump priming the system before I start the engine. I also have a fuel pressure gauge that I can put on the fuel rail. Stick an INSULATED screw driver in a spark plug boot and ground it. That tells you if you have fuel and spark. It's kinda obvious if you have air or not. Have a multimeter that reads frequency? Find the cam position or crank position sensor, and check it's output, should read 3 times per revolution for a 6er and 4 times per rev for an 8er. That way you know the computer is getting the signal (this is if it doesnt have spark, obviously).

All shadetree mechanic things you can do in the driveway. I've done all of the above fighting different issues on my truck.
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The computer code scanner won't scan. The computer costs $75 but because of the theft deterrant system, it has to go to GM and be programmed. GM is charging $350 for that. It's one or the other, either way I'm gonna have to go another three or four days without a car and no form of viable transportation. :mad:

I'm ****** done with GM bull****.
 
AndyMarquisLive said:
The computer code scanner won't scan. The computer costs $75 but because of the theft deterrant system, it has to go to GM and be programmed. GM is charging $350 for that. It's one or the other, either way I'm gonna have to go another three or four days without a car and no form of viable transportation. :mad:

I'm ******* done with GM bull****.
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Shouldn't have to go to GM. Dealer can program it on the spot if they have the right computer. If not, call around. Dodge has the same thing, all computer resources programmed it for me.
 
Magnethead said:
Shouldn't have to go to GM. Dealer can program it on the spot if they have the right computer. If not, call around. Dodge has the same thing, all computer resources programmed it for me.
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Ken Dixon and Winegardner are asking $150 just to look at it.
 
AndyMarquisLive said:
Replaced the fuel pump, filter, ignotion switch, spark plugs and it still won't start.

GM says it's the theft deterrant system, which prevents the car from starting to prevent theft. It goes bad all the time and would prevent the on board computer from working, fuel pump from starting and prevent the fuel ignition from working and prevents the car from starting even with the right keys in the ignition.

Last GM product I ever buy. From now on, it's Ford or Toyota for me.
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This is why I drive a 20 year old Ford, no gps, no black box, no computerized theft deterrent system. The theft deterrent system in my car is it's a 20 year old car. There's no automatic driving systems controlling my suspension. I've got Koni adjustable struts so I can set it up for running at a road course or soften them up for normal street driving.


 
blue92 said:
This is why I drive a 20 year old Ford, no gps, no black box, no computerized theft deterrent system. The theft deterrent system in my car is it's a 20 year old car. There's no automatic driving systems controlling my suspension. I've got Koni adjustable struts so I can set it up for running at a road course or soften them up for normal street driving.
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I don't think I could ever buy one of these new cars with all these built in computers that park your car for you and this and that. Sounds to me like if any of these 2012 cars breaks down, you're out thousands of dollars.

I miss my old SUV. No A/C, no heat, no power steering, no computerized systems, no power locks or power windows. And guess what, it was the most reliable piece I've ever owned.
 
Unfortunately, the TDS can't be removed. I wish it could be.

My theft deterrant is that my car is parked on the corner of the entrance of a 1,500 home housing development in the middle of St. Charles that has police crawling at all hours of the night. One attempt to do anything stupid around here would earn you a one way ticket to the Corrections Division at the Charles County Detention Center.
 
Interesting from what I've read it seems like your real problem is the failure to properly diagnose the vehicle causing multiple parts to be replaced that where not the issue. It still sounds like someones taking a guess.
I'd recomend finding a good technician in your area. Although Dealerships are perceived by many to be an expensive choice their technicians are highly trained and have the correct equipment availible to diagnose your vehicle.

Still curious on the make and model of your Buick and which model is supposedly "Bad"?
 
It's at the dealership now and it's worst case scenario. The computer is bad, and it's bad because a data cable rubbed against the frame until it split. The bill is $850.
 
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