My '63 Unibody (Integral Cab)

Whizzer

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When I see the things you do to make sure everything lines up properly and has the correct setting position, The right finish and, oh, yeh, it needs new brake lines, but I gotta bend them myself, it makes me shudder to think of the thousands of customized vehicles that were put together in a way that, "Hey! Everything fits." One reason I never bought a customized vehicle. Now.............. this truck, when completed, is one that would be of interest 'cause ya know it was done and done right! Keep posting them there pitchers, Bobby!!
 

BobbyFord

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My doors and fenders getting bodyworked. These are really nice rust free, dent free 59 year old parts. 🙂
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Whizzer

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Nice solid doors and fenders. They never woulda lasted where I came from originally. New Jersey is generous with the use of salt.
I'm really looking forward to the finished product.
 

BobbyFord

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Nice work, Bobby. :) That is going to be one sharp-looking truck.
I hope so. I’m lucky to have my buddy Paul helping with the bodywork and paint.
I’ve never done one of my own cars this way but I’ve worked on cars that multiple people were involved in. My cars were always done a little bit at a time.
This one is being completely disassembled, complete new rewire, new engine and trans, powdercoated frame…I’ll probably wind up doing all new brake lines again. The front suspension has already been rebuilt. 😳
 

BobbyFord

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Dang, I’m glad someone took that pic. Great times at that shop.
Paul sent me that pic, that’s how long we’ve known each other.
Good times.
 

BobbyFord

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So I’ve been chasing that starter housing leak on my Harley after I got it back together. I put an aftermarket outer primary cover on it from Drag Specialties. Turns out that Chinese made primary cover had a fat spot in the casting around the compensating sprocket that made the cover hit the sprocket and cause the bendix starter shaft to be out of center. That shaft is sealed by a very thin o-ring; any offset will result in a leak. I bought a 45 year old outer primary cover from eBay to replace the Chinese junk. I paid $225 for the Drag Specialties junk. It will soon be in my recycling bin.
I hand-polished the 1977 OEM primary that I bought off of eBay. Mother’s Mag Polish…
I’m waiting for gaskets to arrive in the mailbox.

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BobbyFord

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I paid $100 more for the used OEM cover. 😐
But it’s really nice. I tried to find NOS.
That’s a problem owning a 45 year old motorcycle.
 

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Messed with the engine mounts on the 63 today. I think I’ve got the setup mocked that I’m going to use. I doubled up the frame brackets from the two sets that I bought. A little more massaging on these and they will be what I’ll use.
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BobbyFord

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Tore this thing apart a g a i n. 😡
Threw that new $225 Chinese outer primary into my blue recycling bin.
I can’t believe how out of spec that casting was.
Installed the 45 year old OEM primary, relieved the tension on the starter shaft housing and cured the leak.
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BobbyFord

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My luck. The next day the choke cable on my Mikuni carburetor broke. I ordered a new one.
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This cable was poorly mounted to begin with, my fault. It used to route in front of the air filter and had a very tight bend in it. I made a bracket to relocate the choke button to the rear of the air filter.
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BobbyFord

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I got back to the engine mounts on the 63 today.
So far I’ve bought 3 sets of motor mounts.
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👆🏻The ones on the right are from Trans-Dapt and came with the frame brackets. These insulators are cheap junk with no metal bushings at all.
The ones on the left are from Speedway Motors, better rubber composite with a shouldered bolt.
I would use the Speedway mounts before I’d use the Trans-Dapt mounts. Both are designed to insulate a 1/4” thick frame bracket.
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👆🏻 These are universal polyurethane insulators from Energy Suspension. These have metal bushings. These are the mounts that I’ll use.
Since I doubled the frame bracket thickness from 1/4” to 1/2”, I need longer metal bushings.
I had these made to my specifications 👇🏻
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My brackets are stronger. From two bolt to four bolt. From 1/4” to 1/2”.
From cheap rubber to bushed polyurethane. I had to Dremel the bracket holes from 1” to 1-1/4”

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I’ll test fit these in the truck this next week. I’ll trim the corners off the brackets and finish the welds.
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That's some nice work. Those bushing and motor mounts you had made look substantial.
Truck is looking good and taking shape. Wish you'd hurry up!! I'll be 86 in a month and I'd like to see the finished product before my expiration date. 😁
 

BobbyFord

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That's some nice work. Those bushing and motor mounts you had made look substantial.
Truck is looking good and taking shape. Wish you'd hurry up!! I'll be 86 in a month and I'd like to see the finished product before my expiration date. 😁
Truth is, the reason I’m dragging my feet is because there really isn’t a spot for my truck at the shop yet.
The 57 Chevy has to leave first. I saw Paul today he said the car will be gone by the end of October.
 

BobbyFord

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I was at my buddy Bird’s house a few days ago. He’s got a couple of Schwarzenegger’s bikes over there. One of them is completely chromed; gas tank, fenders, etc. You prolly need sunblock to ride that thing. I didn’t have my phone or I would’ve got a few pics.
A lot of cool stuff over there, I’m gonna head back over there this weekend, I’ll bring my phone for some pics.
He’s got a show on the History channel called Fully Torqued.
 

BobbyFord

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Messed with the rust spot on the right front fender today.
This 👇🏻 is part of what was cut out.

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This area is actually behind the grill but part of the front fascia of the fender was rusted and thin.
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Now I’ll take the fender to Freddie for sandblasting. 🙂
 

BobbyFord

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Unibody doors are unique in that the mid body line is straight. Non-unibody trucks during the same 3 years had a scalloped mid-line at the front, near the fender.
Below is a pic of the body line on a non-Uni door 👇🏻
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