My '63 Unibody (Integral Cab)

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
My friend/racing buddy/former boss, Josh Bertschy, owns Steerco Performance here in Fort Worth. He might not be as knowledgable about boxes that old, but he is pretty sharp on alot of the details and where to get things.
I looked everywhere around here. This is a semi-fluid, self leveling grease.
Apparently it is also used in lawnmower gear boxes in the Stens brand.
https://www.stens.com/770-123-00-grease
I went to every lawnmower shop within 20 miles, no luck.
I ordered some Champion grease from Eckler's. Should be here in a few days.
https://www.classicchevy.com/champion-00-manual-steering-box-grease.html
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Wow, bummer. Waited a week to get the brake parts from Pirate Jack's in NC. This stuff is Chinese junk. I guess I'll source some OEM parts for the brake conversion. :angry:
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Sent the Chinese crap back to NC today at a cost of $47. I kept the booster firewall bracket. This company has some pretty harsh return fees. They said if I got free shipping it's automatically 20% stocking fee. Website also states 20% if the products are opened. I'm not sure how you can inspect and check fitment without opening the items. Does this mean 40% total or 20%?
I emailed them and told them the master didn't even sit flush on the booster, sort of like the studs on the booster were too far apart to match the holes on the master cylinder. How can they charge me 20% for bolt holes that don't line up? The pedal rod with heim ball was awesome but the booster was cheesy. This isn't something I'd feel safe with on the road, brakes are kind of important.
They said it could take weeks to get (some) of my money back. If they "F" me I will hammer them on the Vendor Feedback section of the car forums.
I sourced out a rebuilt factory Bendix booster for a 1975 F100 and a new master cylinder for the same application. Ordered a fixed universal disc/drum prop valve (because OEM is obsolete for that year) and a universal horizontal mount bracket. I can go to a local shop and get 3/16" Bundy tube and the necessary fittings to attach the lines.
 

Bobw

Team Owner
Joined
Jan 22, 2013
Messages
13,283
Points
883
I'm right there with you on the Chinese crap. Brake stuff in particular is damn scary, rotors that are much thinner than OEM.
If I need it today I go to NAPA, if I know I've got a project coming up I call Rock Auto.
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
I'm right there with you on the Chinese crap. Brake stuff in particular is damn scary, rotors that are much thinner than OEM.
If I need it today I go to NAPA, if I know I've got a project coming up I call Rock Auto.
Brakes, bearings, seals, gaskets...
Some of the US companies manufacture in Mexico but the quality is still good.
Chinese, not so much.
 

kyle18fan

Proud member of Rowdy Nation
Contributor
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
51,758
Points
683
Location
Valley of the sun
Made the hard lines for the transmission today after work. I have a really awesome tool for doing double flares and AN flares. The flares come out absolutely perfect.
These are nice tools to have.

Perfect double flares...

This isn't my best tube bending work. You can tell I'm a little rusty.

Waiting on some 1" square 6061 bar to make spacers for the electric fan.


Really nice work on those lines, my double flare tool isn't quite so nice
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Peeps on one of our car sites were asking for opinions on the best penetrant. A lot of them live in the rust belt region.
WD40? PB Blaster? Liquid Wrench?
The winner was a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid.
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
A lot of the parts arrived today. Threw the brake line clips in the recycling bin. 3/8” bolt hole to retain a 3/16” brake line? Not worth shipping back.
The pedal assembly on the truck has always had a bit of slop in it. Fortunately I have a complete pedal assembly out of a low mileage ‘62 that I’ll freshen up. Bushings are still available. It has a clutch pedal that I’ll just remove.
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
I’ll take some before and after pics. I’m going to blast and zinc plate a bunch of these parts so they don’t rust again.
There’s worse things to waste your money on. :D
 

DanicaFreak

2021 Big Gator winner <Green Monster>
Joined
Feb 21, 2014
Messages
19,434
Points
883
bobby I really dont know why you dont just become a master mechanic. You have the skills....you could work at one of those classic car shops where they recondition old cars make BIG bucks...

OR...make the REAL $$$

https://www.electricgt.com/
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Almost have everything to do the brake swap. Been raining so can't really do anything.
Sent some stuff off to the plater yesterday. The lid and retainer for the master cylinder, brake pedal pivot pin, caliper brackets, hood latch, hood safety catch, etc. You can paint this stuff but it will eventually rust. The zinc will last longer than paint.
I sent this ugly extra set of hood hinges to the plater, too. This is a before pic...

Painted the iron master cylinder with textured metallic paint so it wouldn't rust...

Got these caged nuts from Au-ve-co. They are an OEM supplier for many manufacturers. These nuts hold some of the grille pieces in and they always break the cage when you remove a 50 year old bolt. (Stainless steel line nuts :D)

The caged nuts fit into these square holes in this grille support...

Got these stainless brake line clips, too. Russell is very proud of these. You wouldn't believe what they charge.

I'll paint some of this bare metal tomorrow if it's dry and a little warmer. Should get stuff back from the plater Monday or Tuesday. Incidentally, yellow zinc color has changed a bit here because of new Cali tree-hugger regulations that changed the plating content.
 

be9ak7ts16

Johali Lives
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
15,641
Points
1,033
Location
Upper Michigan
Found this little gem looking at Vintage Modifieds. A 4X4 no less.

upload_2018-12-9_23-32-22.jpeg
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Got some stuff back from the plater today. Hard to believe these hood latch parts and hood hinges are 55 years old.



I blasted and repainted that pedal bracket assembly, replaced the bushings in the brake pedal and reassembled it sans clutch pedal. Still waiting for the pedal pad. Shaft and spacer were zinc plated.
 

Johali

Team Owner
Contributor
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
26,697
Points
1,033
Got some stuff back from the plater today. Hard to believe these hood latch parts and hood hinges are 55 years old.



I blasted and repainted that pedal bracket assembly, replaced the bushings in the brake pedal and reassembled it sans clutch pedal. Still waiting for the pedal pad. Shaft and spacer were zinc plated.
It's coming together damn good bud. :beerbang:
 

Whizzer

Gig'em
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
10,788
Points
1,013
Location
NJ to NC to FL
Looking good!! Keep the photos coming. I enjoy them as apparently do others.
When I restored old John Deere Lawn tractors, similar steps were taken to get them like new. None left now having sold them all when we relocated and downsized.
Never tire of the step by step process some, not all, people take when rebuilding. Always look forward to the end result. :)
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Looking good!! Keep the photos coming. I enjoy them as apparently do others.
When I restored old John Deere Lawn tractors, similar steps were taken to get them like new. None left now having sold them all when we relocated and downsized.
Never tire of the step by step process some, not all, people take when rebuilding. Always look forward to the end result. :)
Thanks. It’s fun to do this stuff.
My goal for this truck right now is to upgrade the brakes, steering and cooling system so that this truck is useable as a work truck.
The front straight axle has a worn king pin bore that leans the driver side tire in affecting straight line steering and wearing out the inside of the tire.
The primitive ‘63 brakes are terrifying. Single line, jar-type master cylinder with just a splitter block and no combo valve. If you blow one brake line or one wheel cylinder then you have zero brakes. I’ll be replacing the junction block with a combo valve that among other functions will still allow braking to either the front or rear brakes in the event of a pressure drop at any one wheel.
At some point I’ll take this truck apart, get it bodyworked and painted and set the body on a powdercoated frame. I have a spare frame.
I also want to replace the rear differential housing with one from a 1972 F100 which has a different track width and wider rear brake shoes.
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Been doing some research on the rear differential assembly. Seems 1957-1972 F100 rear ends were all 61.25” wide, axle flange to axle flange. Width changed in 1973 (to 1986) to 65.25”.
The later diff would be too wide.
I could keep my current diff and just change the brake backing plates and drums to get the wider rear brakes. :)
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
I'm frustrated right now. Not with the truck because I love this truck but because I feel like the truck has a broken leg and I'm starting at the toes. Everything I'm doing now is connected to something else that also needs attention. I should really be working on my other truck. Everything mechanical on the other truck is new, it just needs paint and bodywork. I want to take this truck apart and send the body off to a rotisserie and work on the frame. I'm going to bend brake lines and install them on an old, roasted frame, only to be removed and installed on the other (fresh) frame at a later time. :mad:
I need to just get the steering and brakes done so that I have a useable truck while the other one goes off to Paul's for bodywork and paint. Seems bassakwards.
Today I made lines to connect the master cylinder to the combo valve. I'm not happy with the lines or the location of the valve but I need to press on and get this truck drivable again. Everything is pretty snug.


I'm going to take this all apart and make some adjustments. I'm going to pull the inner fenders off so I have more unlimited access to run the hardline to the wheels. I need to install the new axle and get the disc parts onto the new axle.
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Tore the front end apart today.

Ordered a bunch more parts. King pin set, new shocks, tie rod ends, steering column floor seal, leaf spring bushings, leaf spring clamps...
There's noting wrong with the spring bushings but I'm going to separate the spring packs and have them sandblasted so I can paint them.
Going to drop off some steering parts off to get blasted. More stuff to the plater, too.
 

DanicaFreak

2021 Big Gator winner <Green Monster>
Joined
Feb 21, 2014
Messages
19,434
Points
883
I'm frustrated right now. Not with the truck because I love this truck but because I feel like the truck has a broken leg and I'm starting at the toes. Everything I'm doing now is connected to something else that also needs attention. I should really be working on my other truck. Everything mechanical on the other truck is new, it just needs paint and bodywork. I want to take this truck apart and send the body off to a rotisserie and work on the frame. I'm going to bend brake lines and install them on an old, roasted frame, only to be removed and installed on the other (fresh) frame at a later time. :mad:
I need to just get the steering and brakes done so that I have a useable truck while the other one goes off to Paul's for bodywork and paint. Seems bassakwards.
Today I made lines to connect the master cylinder to the combo valve. I'm not happy with the lines or the location of the valve but I need to press on and get this truck drivable again. Everything is pretty snug.


I'm going to take this all apart and make some adjustments. I'm going to pull the inner fenders off so I have more unlimited access to run the hardline to the wheels. I need to install the new axle and get the disc parts onto the new axle.

that master cylinder and reservoir is pretty
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Can't figure out what I want to do here. It's hard for me to do something halfway. I want to make this nice but I don't want a trailer queen. I need a usable truck. I'm supposed to be working on my other truck right now. I don't want to put nice painted suspension parts on this frame so I want to get the other frame powdercoated...but I don't want bodywork dust or overspray on a fresh frame.
I think I'll get the suspension back on it so it's a roller, pull the engine and trans and get it to the bodyshop with the old frame still under it. Either way I tore it back apart today...a little farther...




I need to get back to work on the other truck.
 
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
2,248
Points
443
Location
South Central Kentucky
Can't figure out what I want to do here. It's hard for me to do something halfway. I want to make this nice but I don't want a trailer queen. I need a usable truck. I'm supposed to be working on my other truck right now. I don't want to put nice painted suspension parts on this frame so I want to get the other frame powdercoated...but I don't want bodywork dust or overspray on a fresh frame.
I think I'll get the suspension back on it so it's a roller, pull the engine and trans and get it to the bodyshop with the old frame still under it. Either way I tore it back apart today...a little farther...




I need to get back to work on the other truck.
Hey Bobby......... I see in the picture what appears to be a Snap-On IM32 butterfly impact. Those are amazing tools. I have had 8 of them over the last 35 years. Still have 4 in operating condition. Just bought 2 more off E-bay a couple months ago.
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
Hey Bobby......... I see in the picture what appears to be a Snap-On IM32 butterfly impact. Those are amazing tools. I have had 8 of them over the last 35 years. Still have 4 in operating condition. Just bought 2 more off E-bay a couple months ago.
Yes it’s a great tool. I have two. I first bought one when I was doing automatic transmissions at Ford. I use it a lot.
 

BobbyFord

Secret Agent Man
Contributor
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
66,661
Points
1,033
Location
Southern California.
I had these two thin metal plates blocking the big original holes in the firewall where the old master cyl was mounted and where the clutch linkage passed through.


I made one plate out of thicker gauge metal.


This disc kit uses D52 GM calipers. I couldn't figure out the pattern on the end of the caliper brake hose. After a Google image search I decided 1968 Chevelle frame brackets would work.


Got one brake line made today.

 
Top Bottom