My '63 Unibody (Integral Cab)

Discussion in 'Chit-Chat' started by BobbyFord, Oct 21, 2018.

  1. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    I looked everywhere around here. This is a semi-fluid, self leveling grease.
    Apparently it is also used in lawnmower gear boxes in the Stens brand.
    https://www.stens.com/770-123-00-grease
    I went to every lawnmower shop within 20 miles, no luck.
    I ordered some Champion grease from Eckler's. Should be here in a few days.
    https://www.classicchevy.com/champion-00-manual-steering-box-grease.html
     
  2. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Here's an interesting Unibody truck that a guy on one of our truck forums found.
    http://f-100xl.info/
     
  3. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Wow, bummer. Waited a week to get the brake parts from Pirate Jack's in NC. This stuff is Chinese junk. I guess I'll source some OEM parts for the brake conversion. :angry:
     
  4. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Sent the Chinese crap back to NC today at a cost of $47. I kept the booster firewall bracket. This company has some pretty harsh return fees. They said if I got free shipping it's automatically 20% stocking fee. Website also states 20% if the products are opened. I'm not sure how you can inspect and check fitment without opening the items. Does this mean 40% total or 20%?
    I emailed them and told them the master didn't even sit flush on the booster, sort of like the studs on the booster were too far apart to match the holes on the master cylinder. How can they charge me 20% for bolt holes that don't line up? The pedal rod with heim ball was awesome but the booster was cheesy. This isn't something I'd feel safe with on the road, brakes are kind of important.
    They said it could take weeks to get (some) of my money back. If they "F" me I will hammer them on the Vendor Feedback section of the car forums.
    I sourced out a rebuilt factory Bendix booster for a 1975 F100 and a new master cylinder for the same application. Ordered a fixed universal disc/drum prop valve (because OEM is obsolete for that year) and a universal horizontal mount bracket. I can go to a local shop and get 3/16" Bundy tube and the necessary fittings to attach the lines.
     
    2 Sweet and Johali like this.
  5. Bobw

    Bobw Team Owner

    I'm right there with you on the Chinese crap. Brake stuff in particular is damn scary, rotors that are much thinner than OEM.
    If I need it today I go to NAPA, if I know I've got a project coming up I call Rock Auto.
     
    2 Sweet and BobbyFord like this.
  6. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Brakes, bearings, seals, gaskets...
    Some of the US companies manufacture in Mexico but the quality is still good.
    Chinese, not so much.
     
    2 Sweet likes this.
  7. Zerkfitting

    Zerkfitting Team Owner

    I don't think I've seen a vinyl top on a truck before.
     
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  8. kyle18fan

    kyle18fan Kyle Busch win counter guy Contributor


    Really nice work on those lines, my double flare tool isn't quite so nice
     
    BobbyFord likes this.
  9. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Thanks bud.
     
  10. kyle18fan

    kyle18fan Kyle Busch win counter guy Contributor



    I used to mix gear oil and moly grease, it works fabulous.
     
    BobbyFord likes this.
  11. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Yes. Or gear oil and EP lithium grease. That’s old school...and it worked.
     
    kyle18fan likes this.
  12. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Peeps on one of our car sites were asking for opinions on the best penetrant. A lot of them live in the rust belt region.
    WD40? PB Blaster? Liquid Wrench?
    The winner was a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid.
     
    Magnethead likes this.
  13. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    A lot of the parts arrived today. Threw the brake line clips in the recycling bin. 3/8” bolt hole to retain a 3/16” brake line? Not worth shipping back.
    The pedal assembly on the truck has always had a bit of slop in it. Fortunately I have a complete pedal assembly out of a low mileage ‘62 that I’ll freshen up. Bushings are still available. It has a clutch pedal that I’ll just remove.
     
    Johali and TexasRaceLady like this.
  14. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    I’ll take some before and after pics. I’m going to blast and zinc plate a bunch of these parts so they don’t rust again.
    There’s worse things to waste your money on. :D
     
    Johali likes this.
  15. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Here's the pedal assembly from the manual trans donor. I removed the clutch pedal. I ordered pedal pivot bushings, a bump stop and a foot pad.
    I'll drop it at the blaster tomorrow along with hood hinges, hood latch and safety catch.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. DanicaFreak

    DanicaFreak Green monster

    bobby I really dont know why you dont just become a master mechanic. You have the skills....you could work at one of those classic car shops where they recondition old cars make BIG bucks...

    OR...make the REAL $$$

    https://www.electricgt.com/
     
  17. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    I’ve been a mechanic my whole life.
     
    DanicaFreak likes this.
  18. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Almost have everything to do the brake swap. Been raining so can't really do anything.
    Sent some stuff off to the plater yesterday. The lid and retainer for the master cylinder, brake pedal pivot pin, caliper brackets, hood latch, hood safety catch, etc. You can paint this stuff but it will eventually rust. The zinc will last longer than paint.
    I sent this ugly extra set of hood hinges to the plater, too. This is a before pic...
    [​IMG]
    Painted the iron master cylinder with textured metallic paint so it wouldn't rust...
    [​IMG]
    Got these caged nuts from Au-ve-co. They are an OEM supplier for many manufacturers. These nuts hold some of the grille pieces in and they always break the cage when you remove a 50 year old bolt. (Stainless steel line nuts :D)
    [​IMG]
    The caged nuts fit into these square holes in this grille support...
    [​IMG]
    Got these stainless brake line clips, too. Russell is very proud of these. You wouldn't believe what they charge.
    [​IMG]
    I'll paint some of this bare metal tomorrow if it's dry and a little warmer. Should get stuff back from the plater Monday or Tuesday. Incidentally, yellow zinc color has changed a bit here because of new Cali tree-hugger regulations that changed the plating content.
     
    Johali, DanicaFreak and TexasRaceLady like this.
  19. be9ak7ts16

    be9ak7ts16 Hick

    Found this little gem looking at Vintage Modifieds. A 4X4 no less.

    upload_2018-12-9_23-32-22.jpeg
     
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  20. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Grille says it’s a ‘61.
     
  21. be9ak7ts16

    be9ak7ts16 Hick

    Yup, I like what he’s hauling, an old modified body.
     
    BobbyFord likes this.
  22. sdj

    sdj Just a race fan

    Looks like a model kit with used patina look, note, no gas cap filler.
     
  23. be9ak7ts16

    be9ak7ts16 Hick

    The body in the back of that pickup came from this car belonging to Butch Potter.
    upload_2018-12-11_0-13-53.jpeg

    It was used to restore Bill “the Cat” Johnson’s car.
    upload_2018-12-11_0-16-59.jpeg

    This was on Facebook
     
  24. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Got some stuff back from the plater today. Hard to believe these hood latch parts and hood hinges are 55 years old.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I blasted and repainted that pedal bracket assembly, replaced the bushings in the brake pedal and reassembled it sans clutch pedal. Still waiting for the pedal pad. Shaft and spacer were zinc plated.
    [​IMG]
     
    Greg, Clutch, TexasRaceLady and 2 others like this.
  25. Johali

    Johali Team Owner Contributor

    It's coming together damn good bud. :beerbang:
     
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  26. Whizzer

    Whizzer Retired entrepreneur

    Looking good!! Keep the photos coming. I enjoy them as apparently do others.
    When I restored old John Deere Lawn tractors, similar steps were taken to get them like new. None left now having sold them all when we relocated and downsized.
    Never tire of the step by step process some, not all, people take when rebuilding. Always look forward to the end result. :)
     
    Greg and BobbyFord like this.
  27. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Thanks. It’s fun to do this stuff.
    My goal for this truck right now is to upgrade the brakes, steering and cooling system so that this truck is useable as a work truck.
    The front straight axle has a worn king pin bore that leans the driver side tire in affecting straight line steering and wearing out the inside of the tire.
    The primitive ‘63 brakes are terrifying. Single line, jar-type master cylinder with just a splitter block and no combo valve. If you blow one brake line or one wheel cylinder then you have zero brakes. I’ll be replacing the junction block with a combo valve that among other functions will still allow braking to either the front or rear brakes in the event of a pressure drop at any one wheel.
    At some point I’ll take this truck apart, get it bodyworked and painted and set the body on a powdercoated frame. I have a spare frame.
    I also want to replace the rear differential housing with one from a 1972 F100 which has a different track width and wider rear brake shoes.
     
  28. TexasRaceLady

    TexasRaceLady Plank Owner Contributor

    I'm LOVING the pics, Bobby. That's going to be one, sweet truck when it's done.
     
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  29. DanicaFreak

    DanicaFreak Green monster

    please keep us up to date. love the work you are doing.
     
    BobbyFord likes this.
  30. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Been doing some research on the rear differential assembly. Seems 1957-1972 F100 rear ends were all 61.25” wide, axle flange to axle flange. Width changed in 1973 (to 1986) to 65.25”.
    The later diff would be too wide.
    I could keep my current diff and just change the brake backing plates and drums to get the wider rear brakes. :)
     
    DanicaFreak, TexasRaceLady and Johali like this.
  31. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    I'm frustrated right now. Not with the truck because I love this truck but because I feel like the truck has a broken leg and I'm starting at the toes. Everything I'm doing now is connected to something else that also needs attention. I should really be working on my other truck. Everything mechanical on the other truck is new, it just needs paint and bodywork. I want to take this truck apart and send the body off to a rotisserie and work on the frame. I'm going to bend brake lines and install them on an old, roasted frame, only to be removed and installed on the other (fresh) frame at a later time. :mad:
    I need to just get the steering and brakes done so that I have a useable truck while the other one goes off to Paul's for bodywork and paint. Seems bassakwards.
    Today I made lines to connect the master cylinder to the combo valve. I'm not happy with the lines or the location of the valve but I need to press on and get this truck drivable again. Everything is pretty snug.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I'm going to take this all apart and make some adjustments. I'm going to pull the inner fenders off so I have more unlimited access to run the hardline to the wheels. I need to install the new axle and get the disc parts onto the new axle.
     
    Clutch and Johali like this.
  32. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Prolly shoulda looped the lines under the master, like everyone else does.
     
  33. Johali

    Johali Team Owner Contributor

    Be a leader not a follower. :D
     
    BobbyFord likes this.
  34. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Tore the front end apart today.
    [​IMG]
    Ordered a bunch more parts. King pin set, new shocks, tie rod ends, steering column floor seal, leaf spring bushings, leaf spring clamps...
    There's noting wrong with the spring bushings but I'm going to separate the spring packs and have them sandblasted so I can paint them.
    Going to drop off some steering parts off to get blasted. More stuff to the plater, too.
     
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  35. DanicaFreak

    DanicaFreak Green monster

    that master cylinder and reservoir is pretty
     
    BobbyFord likes this.
  36. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Can't figure out what I want to do here. It's hard for me to do something halfway. I want to make this nice but I don't want a trailer queen. I need a usable truck. I'm supposed to be working on my other truck right now. I don't want to put nice painted suspension parts on this frame so I want to get the other frame powdercoated...but I don't want bodywork dust or overspray on a fresh frame.
    I think I'll get the suspension back on it so it's a roller, pull the engine and trans and get it to the bodyshop with the old frame still under it. Either way I tore it back apart today...a little farther...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I need to get back to work on the other truck.
     
    Zerkfitting, Whizzer, Johali and 2 others like this.
  37. Hey Bobby......... I see in the picture what appears to be a Snap-On IM32 butterfly impact. Those are amazing tools. I have had 8 of them over the last 35 years. Still have 4 in operating condition. Just bought 2 more off E-bay a couple months ago.
     
  38. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Yes it’s a great tool. I have two. I first bought one when I was doing automatic transmissions at Ford. I use it a lot.
     
    kymartin6 likes this.
  39. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    I had these two thin metal plates blocking the big original holes in the firewall where the old master cyl was mounted and where the clutch linkage passed through.
    [​IMG]

    I made one plate out of thicker gauge metal.
    [​IMG]

    This disc kit uses D52 GM calipers. I couldn't figure out the pattern on the end of the caliper brake hose. After a Google image search I decided 1968 Chevelle frame brackets would work.
    [​IMG]

    Got one brake line made today.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  40. BobbyFord

    BobbyFord Resident Gearhead Contributor

    Photobucket sucks. Keeps rotating my photos :mad:
     

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