It’s relatively expensive here in California because of EPA. Zinc content is probably better there. I like it because it stops the surface rust. The yellow fades with time but the protective properties remain.I love the zinc plating. Some of what I am painting on my ruck now, maybe I ought to find a zinc plater next winter...
I just googled, looks like there are 2 platers here. One says they can zinc plate in 4 different colors. Also do cadmium.It’s relatively expensive here in California because of EPA. Zinc content is probably better there. I like it because it stops the surface rust. The yellow fades with time but the protective properties remain.
Minimum $65 per batch.
Thanks, bud. Took me several hours to bend those two lines. They really came out better than I expected.You are an artist bobby.
WOW. just wow.
If Im ever in cali looking for a car, I'll be sure to hit you up.
Hands aren't sore at all. This hard line is Bundy tube... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bundy_tubeare you hands sore after that?
WOW I just cant get enough of your work.
Prior to buying this tool I used the junk hand tools that would just squirt the line out the backside of the clamp.That flaring tool is nice, i was tiped off to a nice hydraulic one that comes with 4 or 5 dies for $250
Bummer to have to tear out a 55 year old factory rubber floormat but that's what I did. It was pretty brittle and there wasn't any way to get to the steering column plate on the floor without damaging it. I forgot about the floor in this truck, getting the mat out reminded me of many years ago when I fixed the floor under the pedals. When I bought this truck in 1984 the original windshield weatherstrip had shrunk so much that there was a 1" gap in the rubber, dead center at the bottom of the windshield where the weatherstrip split. Rain leaked in under the floormat and rusted the floor under the pedals. I was in my early twenties when I cut the rusted section of the floor out, riveted in and seam sealed thick, hardened stainless steel in place of the old rotted mild steel. I'm going to DynaMat the floor and firewall when I rip this thing apart.
I would like to have a solid week or so to work on the truck but my job keeps getting in the way.That's the way to backyard engineer, Bobby. Good job.
Seems like I have to make a lot of stuff to get this mishmash of parts to come together. I've searched the interwebs for a firewall grommet that will work to seal the booster to the firewall. Nothing really exists. So I have an idea that might work. It consists of a thin-walled pipe in between the booster and the firewall with a gasket at either end. I couldn't find a 2" pipe with thin enough walls to fit between the booster brackets. It could be made of plastic, pvc, aluminum...couldn't find anything that would work.
I cut a piece of 16 gauge mild steel and rolled it into a 2" diameter pipe. There will be flat plate with a 1.5" hole at one either end and this pipe and it will go between the firewall and booster with some cork gasket material.
I already have used ones. All of the used ones are 55 years old. If I buy a set of used ones, pay to get them blasted, buy bushings and shackles then I'm only slightly better than what I've got now. I'd be out about $300 to do a used set.
No, can't make them.OMG that sucks......can ya make them?