My '63 Unibody (Integral Cab)

Magnethead

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I love the zinc plating. Some of what I am painting on my ruck now, maybe I ought to find a zinc plater next winter...
 

BobbyFord

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I love the zinc plating. Some of what I am painting on my ruck now, maybe I ought to find a zinc plater next winter...
It’s relatively expensive here in California because of EPA. Zinc content is probably better there. I like it because it stops the surface rust. The yellow fades with time but the protective properties remain.
Minimum $65 per batch.
 

Magnethead

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It’s relatively expensive here in California because of EPA. Zinc content is probably better there. I like it because it stops the surface rust. The yellow fades with time but the protective properties remain.
Minimum $65 per batch.
I just googled, looks like there are 2 platers here. One says they can zinc plate in 4 different colors. Also do cadmium.
 

DanicaFreak

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are you hands sore after that?

WOW I just cant get enough of your work.
 

BobbyFord

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are you hands sore after that?

WOW I just cant get enough of your work.
Hands aren't sore at all. This hard line is Bundy tube... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bundy_tube
It's pretty easy to bend. I use a piece of thick copper wire to mock up a pattern and then use Imperial tube benders https://imperial-tools.com/products/tube-working-tools/tube-benders/ to make the bends.
I also have an amazing tool to make the double flares. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70081/overview/
The tools make the job easy.
 

BobbyFord

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That flaring tool is nice, i was tiped off to a nice hydraulic one that comes with 4 or 5 dies for $250
Prior to buying this tool I used the junk hand tools that would just squirt the line out the backside of the clamp.
A really frustrating way to try to achieve a double flare.
 

BobbyFord

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Bummer to have to tear out a 55 year old factory rubber floormat but that's what I did. It was pretty brittle and there wasn't any way to get to the steering column plate on the floor without damaging it. I forgot about the floor in this truck, getting the mat out reminded me of many years ago when I fixed the floor under the pedals. When I bought this truck in 1984 the original windshield weatherstrip had shrunk so much that there was a 1" gap in the rubber, dead center at the bottom of the windshield where the weatherstrip split. Rain leaked in under the floormat and rusted the floor under the pedals. I was in my early twenties when I cut the rusted section of the floor out, riveted in and seam sealed thick, hardened stainless steel in place of the old rotted mild steel. I'm going to DynaMat the floor and firewall when I rip this thing apart.
 

DanicaFreak

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Bummer to have to tear out a 55 year old factory rubber floormat but that's what I did. It was pretty brittle and there wasn't any way to get to the steering column plate on the floor without damaging it. I forgot about the floor in this truck, getting the mat out reminded me of many years ago when I fixed the floor under the pedals. When I bought this truck in 1984 the original windshield weatherstrip had shrunk so much that there was a 1" gap in the rubber, dead center at the bottom of the windshield where the weatherstrip split. Rain leaked in under the floormat and rusted the floor under the pedals. I was in my early twenties when I cut the rusted section of the floor out, riveted in and seam sealed thick, hardened stainless steel in place of the old rotted mild steel. I'm going to DynaMat the floor and firewall when I rip this thing apart.
SHINY!
 

BobbyFord

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Seems like I have to make a lot of stuff to get this mishmash of parts to come together. I've searched the interwebs for a firewall grommet that will work to seal the booster to the firewall. Nothing really exists. So I have an idea that might work. It consists of a thin-walled pipe in between the booster and the firewall with a gasket at either end. I couldn't find a 2" pipe with thin enough walls to fit between the booster brackets. It could be made of plastic, pvc, aluminum...couldn't find anything that would work.
I cut a piece of 16 gauge mild steel and rolled it into a 2" diameter pipe. There will be flat plate with a 1.5" hole at one either end and this pipe and it will go between the firewall and booster with some cork gasket material.




 

BobbyFord

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That's the way to backyard engineer, Bobby. Good job.
I would like to have a solid week or so to work on the truck but my job keeps getting in the way. :D
I’m headed to the local Pick N Pull today to see if I can get some rear drum backing plates. They supposedly have a couple of later model donor trucks.
 

DanicaFreak

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Seems like I have to make a lot of stuff to get this mishmash of parts to come together. I've searched the interwebs for a firewall grommet that will work to seal the booster to the firewall. Nothing really exists. So I have an idea that might work. It consists of a thin-walled pipe in between the booster and the firewall with a gasket at either end. I couldn't find a 2" pipe with thin enough walls to fit between the booster brackets. It could be made of plastic, pvc, aluminum...couldn't find anything that would work.
I cut a piece of 16 gauge mild steel and rolled it into a 2" diameter pipe. There will be flat plate with a 1.5" hole at one either end and this pipe and it will go between the firewall and booster with some cork gasket material.




We need @kyle18fan to look at your welds.... :D

but I have to say they look pretty darn neat!
 

BobbyFord

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I went to the Pick N Pull yard today and glommed a set of late model Bendix backing plates for a big bearing 9" rear axle housing :beerbang:
There was actually only one truck in the yard with the ones I need. Someone had begun taking them off but couldn't get one of the lug nuts off of each rear wheel. I think they were trying to get the whole rear end out because they only disconnected the rear e-brake cables, removed all but one lug on each side and stopped there. I had to use a nearby rear axle for leverage to get the two lugs off. I grabbed the e-brake cables in case they're different than mine.
These are currently hideous but I'll clean them up real nice. I'll get new drums, wheel cylinders and spring kits.

Too windy here to work outside today.
 

BobbyFord

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I'm going to pull the steering box back apart. The bearings that came in the aftermarket rebuild kit were Chinese. I was able to find some NOS 1962 bearings online, still waiting for the bearing races to get here.
 

BobbyFord

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Playing a waiting game now. :(
Sandblaster guy is on vacation. Machinist (for king pins) is on vacation.
Paint on all of these brake and suspension parts takes 48 hours to dry.
I’m not a patient person.
 

BobbyFord

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I just took off one of the front leaf packs today to split it up and get it ready for the blaster. These springs are pretty used up. Replacement springs are damn expensive. :(
 

BobbyFord

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U.S. made springs from Eaton Detroit Spring are just shy of $900 delivered :eek:
That's just for two front springs and the necessary bushings and shackles.
 

BobbyFord

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used a possibility?
I already have used ones. All of the used ones are 55 years old. If I buy a set of used ones, pay to get them blasted, buy bushings and shackles then I'm only slightly better than what I've got now. I'd be out about $300 to do a used set.
 

DanicaFreak

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I already have used ones. All of the used ones are 55 years old. If I buy a set of used ones, pay to get them blasted, buy bushings and shackles then I'm only slightly better than what I've got now. I'd be out about $300 to do a used set.
OMG that sucks......can ya make them?
 

BobbyFord

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OMG that sucks......can ya make them?
No, can't make them.
I can probably get some Chinese made ones but I'm not going to do that either.
The springs are only about $318 each. I already have frame bushings so I could save a few bucks there but I'd need to buy shackle kits...and the shipping for the large, heavy springs is not cheap.
 

BobbyFord

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Sent off an email with a bunch of questions to Eaton Detroit.
Looked online at suppliers and I can get them for $675 but I don't know the quality or where they're made. I guess I'd rather pay a few extra $$ and buy American.
 

BobbyFord

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Ordered the springs today after several emails with a rep. I got them for less than $880 because I didn’t need the install kits.
They make them once they’re ordered so I should see them in about two weeks. Disc brakes and a fresh front end should make this seem like a different truck.
 
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