My '63 Unibody (Integral Cab)

Got my new vise today. Freaking thing weighs 80 lbs. 😳
The 16” brake drum will be the base for the vise stand...1/2” plate steel on 3x3 1/4” wall square tube.
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I was at Paul’s this Easter morning. I need to make fuel lines for the 57 Chevy/LS project.
A couple of cool cars there. There’s a ‘41 Studebaker that is going to get a satin Black paint job (I didn’t get pics ☹️)
Cool little 550 replica that got a bunch of aluminum work inside the ****pit.
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‘65 Coronet rag that is up for sale. Here for a new top and some trim repair.
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Dude that welded this builds cars like Street Outlaws here on the west coast. 2500hp, twin turbo cars.
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They have a little Nova that runs upper 4s, 1/8 mile.
I’ll try to get some pics next time I’m over there.
 
More welding and metal work today on the 63.
The nuts for the hood hinges on the cowl are basically nutserts…stamped into the cowl. There’s no way to get a wrench on them. Apparently one of them spun and the previous owner hacked a hole in the cowl with a chisel in order to replace the nut.
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I chopped that piece out and made a new piece with a captured nut.
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I guess I’m still in pretty good shape to be able to remove and install the hood by myself 😎
Next, I’m going to pull the motor and paint the firewall.
 
Thanks. I do like this truck. I’ve got Paul on board to help with the body work on the panels. I want him to teach me how to get everything flat. I want to do it myself but I need him to show me how.
Yeah, Paul will be great help.

Love that I have driven this truck. To that Taco shop I'm missing!
 
I just dropped off some new front rims and some paint for my short bed truck for Paul to paint for me. I just don’t have the time.
 
I was at Paul’s today messing with the 57. Nothing on an engine swap ever “bolts in.” Some mods to be made to the “engine swap” oil pan, needs a notch to clear the steering rack. I’ll head back over tomorrow and finish securing the fuel and brake lines to the frame.
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I must admit I never had the time or patience to restore a car or truck but sure do admire those who do and do it well.
Thin is, post retirement, I had time and patience to restore John Deere lawn and garden tractors pre-1980. Must have been something in the water. :idunno:

There are a lot more "wannabe" restore and customizers than there are those who are good at it. Bobby and Magnethead are two who are good at it and I enjoy watching their progress even though in Mags case, I don't understand a whole lot of what he does on the dragster but still find it interesting, until he gets busy on his Dakota. I love those trucks just as much as I love the truck Bobby is restoring. You guys keep the pictures and explanations coming.
 
I did not weld that. I don’t have a TIG welder ☹️
The guy that welded that builds chassis, roll cages, stainless headers, etc. for race cars.
I AM my old-man. All I see is a huge amount of wasted money. I DID do this stuff as a younger man. Was helping a guy on a dirt car. He spent $400 on decals (pre-wrap days) when he desperately needed a carb. Spent tons on beer. I quit shortly after. Never spent another dime on go-fast parts since. Don't drink, smoke, drugs, boat or hunt. I'm a boring guy.
 
I AM my old-man. All I see is a huge amount of wasted money. I DID do this stuff as a younger man. Was helping a guy on a dirt car. He spent $400 on decals (pre-wrap days) when he desperately needed a carb. Spent tons on beer. I quit shortly after. Never spent another dime on go-fast parts since. Don't drink, smoke, drugs, boat or hunt. I'm a boring guy.
There are worse things to “waste your money” on.
 
I’m going to put a front sway bar on this straight axle truck. 😎
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Only difference is I’m not going to drill a hole in my straight axle and attach the cheesy brackets. Instead, I’m going to fab a bracket out of 3/8” plate that attaches to the axle u-bolts, just under the axle itself.
 
Got my front sway bar mocked up and installed today. It's so time consuming when you have to make things.
The sway bar I bought is really for a 65-79 Twin I beam truck. They don't make a sway bar for my straight axle truck but since the front frame rails are the same width from 61-79, I'm going to make this sway bar fit. The body roll in the corners is terrible in these front leaf trucks, especially with a big block under the hood.
I had to make a bracket to attach the end links to the straight axle, I used 3/8" plate and made a bracket that will mount to the axle u-bolts.
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I also needed to space the pivot points 1/2" lower to make the end link attachment at less of an angle so I made some spacers out of 1/2" plate. All of these brackets are 100% hand made.
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The install actually came out better than I thought it would.
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There's just enough clearance between the end link and the steering arm.
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I'll pull all these bare steel parts off now and have them plated. I have another powdercoated frame for this truck that I'll use.
 

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DAMN!! Been around mechanical stuff all my life and never knew what an annular drill bit was until it was mentioned in the above post and then had to look it up. Shoulda known Bobby woulda used the proper tool to perform his feats of getting this old Ford rebuilt to his specs. No Sir!! No regular, ordinary, run of the mill, drill bit for Bobby!!! ;)
BTW Bobby, nice job on fabricating the parts to make the sway bar fit!! Progress in the making. So far you have my stamp of approval on the rebuild. I must admit while viewing the photos was wondering about the frame when I saw the rust but you answered my concern. I shoulda known better!! :rolleyes:
 
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