MFR Shop -> New Car

Also weighed it today with dad in the car and all accessories on the chassis (albeit boxed)

1742 + fluids. If dad could lose a few pounds, that would help too.

1742
5 quarts oil = @ 7.3/gal = 9.13 pounds
5 quarts trans fluid = @ 7.3/gal = 9.13 pounds
1 quart gasoline = @ 6.25/gal = 1.56 pounds
4 gallons methanol = @ 6.63/gal = 26.52 pounds
4 gallons water = @ 8.34/gal = 33.36 pounds

= 1821 pounds plus body.

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Plumbing is done, waiting for some stuff from Ron's fuel to get here, need to order another cable from RPM for the water temp, and that should be it. Running out of things to check off the to-do list.

Had the body brought in, but had to send it back...panels didn't all match the same color and the flames weren't the kind dad asked for/showed the painter.

These are the flame we're going for, to stretch for the first full panel (the ones on the car were half a panel long). Just with the sunset orange base instead of the tangelo.



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Threw fluids in it today. 1560 pounds lacking 4.5 gallons of fuel, 28 pound headers, two parachutes, and belts.
 
1742
5 quarts oil = @ 7.3/gal = 9.13 pounds
5 quarts trans fluid = @ 7.3/gal = 9.13 pounds
1 quart gasoline = @ 6.25/gal = 1.56 pounds
4 gallons methanol = @ 6.63/gal = 26.52 pounds
4 gallons water = @ 8.34/gal = 33.36 pounds

= 1821 pounds plus body.

1490 + 9.13+9.13+1.56+26.52+33.26= 1540

Went from 1490 to 1560 pounds, but we added the scoop tray, computer, oil filter, and distributor as well. So 60ish pounds of fluids.

4 quarts trans fluid @ 7.3 = 7.3 pounds
8 quarts engine oil @ 7.3 = 14.6 pounds
3.5 gallons water @ 8.34 = 29.2 pounds

= 51 pounds or so, itemized. So the other 20 pounds were hard parts.

1560 +

1 quart gasoline = @ 6.25/gal = 1.56 pounds
4.5 gallons methanol = @ 6.63/gal = 29.83 pounds
28 pound headers
6 pound wings
15 pound scoop
15 pound body

= 1,655 pounds
+ 4 pound belts + 5 pound helmet + 8 pound ski
= 1,672 pounds
+ 240# driver
= 1,912 pounds
+ dual chutes (20?)
= 1,932 pounds

Man the nickels and dimes hurt!!
 
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Since the top of the radiator is higher than the intake manifold, it makes it a royal pain to burp the system. Had to jack the nose up as high as our jack would go, and I still think there's air in the system. We're leaving it a quart low so we can add some water conditioner.

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Worked on the exhaust sensors today and sorted Out the dial-in board system.
 
hell, that's ugly compared to other people's....

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Don't sell yourself short, you did a really nice job on your electrical. The thing i like about dragsters is that you have a lot of extra room for all of the electrical components. I don't know if you looked inside of our box, but it is a nightmare in there. On a funny car there just isn't enough room to put a larger box so we have to mount a lot of stuff on top of each other. And now that we are going to a 107 gallon per minute fuel pump we have to build a larger fuel tank which will make it even less room for our electrical box.
 
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I've seen glimpses on TV. I don't think the dragsters have that much more room, still limited to in front of the blow plate, over the footbox, or in front of the footbox.
 
Guess I missed an update. Had the scoop tray chrome powdercoated. $40 and it's actually reflective...there isn't even any clear on it yet!

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burns stainless do tha pipes ?
Yes, they are stainless. They turn gold after a few heat cycles.

In case you've missed the memo..

orange paint
orange digital dash
gold-stainless headers
orange duct tape
maroon truck
chrome everything
chrome-powdercoated everything else
silver powercoated remainders
and lots of black trim pieces and hoses.
 
We bled the brakes, did a back half nut&bolt check, re-torqued the beadlocks (I've never been able to carry a mounted slick one handed..gotta love the weld ultralights!), and got everything ready to go.

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lookin good mag !

how many total hours will ya'll have spent ta get it ready for 1st race ?
 
fuel leak, another fuel leak, still leaking, fixed, transmission park isn't park, transmission leak, another fuel leak, dead battery. Need to re-do transmission cooler fitting, and put new O-Rings in barrel valve. But it runs.

Also, thing to get used to: no fenders around tires and do not assume park is park. I now have pieces [plural] of skin removed due to backing up into tires turning when trans was in park [I was adding trans fluid and straddling the headers and tried to step backwards].
 
mag ....may be good ta "have skin in tha game ! " ha! more enthusiasm from tha agony !
 
Damn you're lucky it's only small bits of skin :eek:
I didn't say small bits, I said pieces [plural] :p

Good chunk of my left elbow, small piece on my left wrist, and another piece on left pinky knuckle. Elbow is pussing but other 2 aren't too bad.
 
You know if you guys need a extra hand or two I'm around.:D
Come on out, the water's fine :p

Ran it again today, figured out why the trans wouldn't go into park (with help from local trans builder), leaned it out and moved the timing and got it to build a little heat, but still didn't get as warm as we'd like. Trans leak is fixed and the fuel leak seems to have fixed itself. Idle for both fuels is a bit off, 1700 for the gas and 1400 for methanol, not sure if we're going to leave them be.
 
We run the RPM Performance (Okla. City) logger and dash, and my own dial board.

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Been watching all through this thread Mag and its amazing to read! :cheers:
Thanks. I don't drink, hope my mug has root beer :p ;)

I've got 7500 views between this thread and a clone elsewhere. Maxxed out photobucket on the rolling month, pics should return 14-15th.
 
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I built the dial board and about 10 others and tried to sell them to local racers. Some did and some didn't work. It's been an ongoing battle, but everything always worked on the camaro.

It worked yesterday, but not today. In the video I quickly stripped a shielding wire and shoved it in the ground connector, but I don't think it quite worked (but it may have helped a little). I have an idea what the cause in, and I'm tracking it down. The control switches only logic off of 2 micro-amps, and the modified unit that I already had prepared (and seemed to work better on a second run I didn't record) requires an 11 milliamp signal to control. It's still a work in progress. The coil wires off the digital 7 box run 535V at 135 millijoules, or 135 milliwatts per second, or about 2.5 micro-amps. The coil output to distributor is 45,000 volts at 2 amps. There's no way I can avoid the secondary currents, but I'm hoping by bringing the controller trigger current above the coil primary current, that the induced charges may not be so significant.

Also, painter called this morning and said he doesn't want to repaint the panels. So he stripped them and brought them back [you can see them at the start of the video]. There's 3 painters in the area, 2 of which haven't given us what we wanted. Hopefully the third try will be the charm. The painter pretty much admitted that he'd never done a pearl main coat before, and it was obvious not everything was done at once. The 3rd painter we're going to try knows how to work pearl and welcomed us to put on paint suits and help spray the panels or supervise the spraying to get the finish that dad wants.

 
Already getting complaints about peoples dogs pooping when the dragster starts halfway across the development. Its definitely louder, but jeez.
 
Already getting complaints about peoples dogs pooping when the dragster starts halfway across the development. Its definitely louder, but jeez.
Don't feel bad...we use to get the cops called on us when we would fire up a nitro car back in the nineties. Fortunately most of the cops were racing fans. Your car is looking awesome. When are you testing it?
 
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