Cable cutters, rejoice

For the record, I'm not using a streaming device. I'm using the YouTube app on an LG 'smart' TV and the set's remote. I strongly want to avoid having two remotes, one for the app and one for the TV. So far the LG remote has performed well enough when I follow the instructions y'all have given. It's just frustrating to have to search third-party sites for info I expect the vendor to have made available. One big issue with that is, what if there are options or features that I don't even know to ask about? But again, maybe it's there and I just missed it.

The remote that comes with the streaming device can control the basic functions (power, volume) of your TV as well. And your TV remote can also control the streaming device.
 
@Charlie Spencer I'd just stick with what you're doing, using the TV software, unless you're planning on buying a premium streaming device (Apple TV 4K, Roku Ultra, nVidia Shield). The software could become obsolete on your TV in 3-5 years because of hardware limitations, but the same is true for streaming devices. If you buy a $15 Roku Express or $12 Walmart streaming stick, it's going to be hampered the same way pretty quickly - or you'll deal with the constant offloading of apps because it has very little, if any, storage.

If you start running into issues with apps not working, constant freezing, it'd be worth it to just go get a streaming device.

The main reason I went with Apple TV 4K was because of Dolby Atmos. My Roku Ultra didn't support it in full, while the Samsung Tizen OS and Amazon Fire Stick 4K both caused my rear speakers to give off a persistent nasty hissing sound. My Apple TV, however, works as intended. Plus, Apple TV and Android TV don't have the same disputes that Roku and Amazon have. Roku and Amazon, Roku moreso, take A LOT of money from the app developers/content providers and it often leads to apps being removed from the platform. Apple TV and Google/Android don't have these disputes.
 
@Charlie SpencerThe software could become obsolete on your TV in 3-5 years because of hardware limitations, but the same is true for streaming devices. If you buy a $15 Roku Express or $12 Walmart streaming stick, it's going to be hampered the same way pretty quickly - or you'll deal with the constant offloading of apps because it has very little, if any, storage.

This is true to an extent, but I have 6 TVs....two TVs with Roku built-in, two with newer Roku streaming sticks, and two with older Roku sticks (probably 7-8 years old) and even the old ones still work really well. They are a little bit slower, but I've never had issues with storage or getting clunky like the POS Fire Stick that was completely worthless after a few years.

I really don't like the interface on my smart TVs, even the newer one I have. IMO, the Roku devices are FAR superior to LG/Samsung/etc's built in smart garbage.
 
This is true to an extent, but I have 6 TVs....two TVs with Roku built-in, two with newer Roku streaming sticks, and two with older Roku sticks (probably 7-8 years old) and even the old ones still work really well. They are a little bit slower, but I've never had issues with storage or getting clunky like the POS Fire Stick that was completely worthless after a few years.

I really don't like the interface on my smart TVs, even the newer one I have. IMO, the Roku devices are FAR superior to LG/Samsung/etc's built in smart garbage.
I've had a couple Rokus that I bought in 2016 that had to be replaced in 2019.
 
I'd just stick with what you're doing, using the TV software, unless you're planning on buying a premium streaming device (Apple TV 4K, Roku Ultra, nVidia Shield). If you buy a $15 Roku Express or $12 Walmart streaming stick, it's going to be hampered the same way pretty quickly - or you'll deal with the constant offloading of apps because it has very little, if any, storage.
Maybe more info on my part would be useful. We're not concerned with sound bars or Dolby; we use the set's speakers and have no plans to change. We're not interested in 4K content or other video enhancements. We're more than satisfied with the LG's existing picture. We'll only be watching on two devices at a time; there's only two of us and neither switches back and forth between multiple programs or watches more than one program at once. Basically, I'm looking to duplicate what cable delivers at a reduced price, nothing more or less. We're watching less TV over the last few years, and at this time I don't see that trend reversing.

@AndyMarquisLive , what's the difference between a premium device and a cheapie, in terms of what they can do? I'm not sure what you mean by 'constant offloading of apps'. I don't plan on having more than one to replace cable, and whatever else may be necessary to watch NASCAR, Indy, and IMSA (Peacock and eventually Amazon?).

I keep forgetting I have a Roku on the set in the garage. I took another look at it yesterday. Stripping its interface down to the bare essentials is easier than the LG's interface, but obviously that has no effect on the YTTV interface. Currently when I start the LG, it defaults to the cable box, despite my attempts to get it to boot to the home page. Having to switch from the box the home menu to start YTTV is a nuisance. I want to move the stick to the LG and disconnect the cable box, and see if the set to default to the Roku.
 
@AndyMarquisLive , what's the difference between a premium device and a cheapie, in terms of what they can do? I'm not sure what you mean by 'constant offloading of apps'. I don't plan on having more than one to replace cable, and whatever else may be necessary to watch NASCAR, Indy, and IMSA (Peacock and eventually Amazon?).

The same as the difference between a $200 laptop and a $2,000 laptop.

Something like a Roku Express will be fine for most people.

If you have a bunch of apps, some of these devices will have to reinstall them every time you use them.
 
I want to move the (Roku) stick to the LG and disconnect the cable box, and see if the set to default to the Roku.
So much for that. I broke the Roku when I disconnected it from the garage set. More specific, I couldn't easily reach the back of the set. I pulled the power cable to the stick to try pulling the stick out of the HDMI port. I'd forgotten the power cable connected to the stick at a 90-degree angle. Pulling the cord put excess pressure on the jack at the end of the cord, and I damaged it. So now I'm out a Roku. I'm guessing replacing the power adapter will probably run as much as a new one.
@Charlie Spencer I'd just stick with what you're doing, using the TV software, unless you're planning on buying a premium streaming device (Apple TV 4K, Roku Ultra, nVidia Shield).
But even if I didn't have to replace this one device, I'd be buying a couple more of them anyway. The LG's software works okay for the purposes of testing YTTV but in the long run, I'm going to want the same interfaces and behaviors on all three TVs (living room, den, garage). The den and garage sets aren't smart ones, and slapping devices on them is cheaper than replacing them.

Looks like Amazon time.

EDIT - "I'm guessing replacing the power adapter will probably run as much as a new one."
Actually, Roku sells replacement power cords for less than $10.
 
EDIT - "I'm guessing replacing the power adapter will probably run as much as a new one."
Actually, Roku sells replacement power cords for less than $10.
But not for this model! :p It uses a Mini-B connection, and the replacement cable for sale is Micro-B. I have plenty of Micro-B and USB-C cables but I haven't had anything that uses Mini-B in years.
 
But not for this model! :p It uses a Mini-B connection, and the replacement cable for sale is Micro-B. I have plenty of Micro-B and USB-C cables but I haven't had anything that uses Mini-B in years.

I am so surprised at the number of products being sold that still use Mini USB and Micro USB. Both of these connection types are obsolete.
 
Especially Mini! Best Buy had a Mini cable but while it will power my older stick, it doesn't have the bulge of an antenna that the original cable has. Without it, no WiFi and the stick doesn't respond to the remote.

But I was going to Best Buy to get a new Roku anyway. I'm in the process of hooking it up to the LG.
 
Well, Roku's home screen is easier to configure and navigate than LG's built-in WebOS. I wish I had as much customization within YTTV's interface.

At this point, I have two gripes.
  • Anyone know how long it takes YTTV to learn my viewing preferences? You'd think it would immediately stop recommending programs from channels I've blocked, but nope.
  • I wish the guide went farther out than a few hours. Darling Bride likes to look at TCM for a couple of days out to record movies that look interesting. Search doesn't work if you don't already know what's out there. I'm not sure if she'll regard this as a deal-breaker.
 
Well, Roku's home screen is easier to configure and navigate than LG's built-in WebOS. I wish I had as much customization within YTTV's interface.

At this point, I have two gripes.
  • Anyone know how long it takes YTTV to learn my viewing preferences? You'd think it would immediately stop recommending programs from channels I've blocked, but nope.
  • I wish the guide went farther out than a few hours. Darling Bride likes to look at TCM for a couple of days out to record movies that look interesting. Search doesn't work if you don't already know what's out there. I'm not sure if she'll regard this as a deal-breaker.
Use the Search on Roku to find whatever you are looking for. Will tell you when & what channel they will be on. Might have to take notes though. I tried YouTubeTV briefly and had same complaint. Probably should have given it more time. Now 90% of my time is on antenna, rest use Sling Orange (40 bucks) to get CNN/MSNBC/FS1 & bunch others.
 
Use the Search on Roku to find whatever you are looking for.
That only works if we're looking for something specific. TCM, for example, often runs movies we've not heard of before. A guide that goes beyond a couple of hours would let me see what's being shown during the wee hours.

Searching doesn't expose me to anything new, only what I'm already familiar with.
 
Bit the bullet and subscribed back with Sling.

I've considered also subscribing to FloRacing just for some extra racing content, but it looks rather confusing. I've seen different pricing options with some indications that my FloRacing subscription includes access to other sports, but that doesn't seem accurate as FloSports appears to have subscriptions for other sports as well, some cheaper than others. So without knowing the full details, I can't really commit to the price of a subscription. Anyone have FloRacing? Is FloRacing a subscription that gives you access to just racing content, or does it give you access to other sports offered on FloSports? I've seen people online say that they subscribe to FLoBaseball, which gives them access to to FloRacing, even though the pricing breakdown isn't the same as it is with a FloRacing subscription.
 
Bit the bullet and subscribed back with Sling.

I've considered also subscribing to FloRacing just for some extra racing content, but it looks rather confusing. I've seen different pricing options with some indications that my FloRacing subscription includes access to other sports, but that doesn't seem accurate as FloSports appears to have subscriptions for other sports as well, some cheaper than others. So without knowing the full details, I can't really commit to the price of a subscription. Anyone have FloRacing? Is FloRacing a subscription that gives you access to just racing content, or does it give you access to other sports offered on FloSports? I've seen people online say that they subscribe to FLoBaseball, which gives them access to to FloRacing, even though the pricing breakdown isn't the same as it is with a FloRacing subscription.

Subscription to FloRacing covers ALL FloSports properties.
 
So I caved and got Netflix (with ads) so I could watch Shameless.

The amount of ads aren't as terrible as I was expecting. Maybe like 60-75 seconds per episode, if that.
 
The next phase of streaming becoming just like cable is underway.


I would fully expect WB Discovery's Max to follow suit, followed by others.

IMO, they're planting the seeds to eventually do away with ad-free plans altogether.
 
Seriously, WWE Raw going exclusively to Netflix next year?? Netflix too expensive for me, and WWE Raw isn’t enough to make me subscribe. But it’s rather annoying that it’s happening regardless.
 
Some of you may have to go outside and touch grass. Only sports I follow are Supercross/Motocross & Lucas Oil Late Models. Zero stick & ball sports. Rather watch golf than any of the ball sports.
 
Some of you may have to go outside and touch grass. Only sports I follow are Supercross/Motocross & Lucas Oil Late Models. Zero stick & ball sports. Rather watch golf than any of the ball sports.
NASCAR top three levels, Indy, IMSA, golf. That's it for me. Outside of those, we're watching less non-sports programming too. Retirement has brought me a lot more time for birding!
 
Interesting read.


The ad placement on many of these shows really does suck. Some where made with the promise of ad-free TV, and now they've got ads shoehorned mid-sentence, or place to create a cliffhanger type of effect.
 
Amazon Prime, ESPN+ = Good & necessary streaming evil.

Peacock = Horrible, NBC Sports is garbage about their sports properties and should feel bad about being a joke compared to ESPN, FS1, CBSSN.
 
Interesting read.


The ad placement on many of these shows really does suck. Some where made with the promise of ad-free TV, and now they've got ads shoehorned mid-sentence, or place to create a cliffhanger type of effect.
$3.99 month takes care of that. Probably 1/2 a visit to Starbucks.
 
All this streaming stuff is getting to be a bit much, like FloSports is good but some of this other stuff seems unnecessary.
 
Read a couple articles where Amazon is talking about locking down the Firestick. Meaning no more sideloading apps, only the apps in their store will be available.
 
Another potential blockbuster streaming alliance.

 
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