Alright, now for the truck updates.
So when I left off in December, I had the engine in, transmission crossmember in, injectors 7 and 8 wired, and that was about it.
Since then, I've received the radiator, built a shroud for it, mounted it in the truck, routed all the coolant hoses, tried and failed to start it, tried and failed to start it again, found a distributor gremlin, found an electrical gremlin, and finally got it to make noise, albeit briefly.
The radiator came in from afco exactly how I had designed it, fit exactly like a glove. Picked up some universal hoses from Summit and was able to cobble everything together, plus hook up the heater hoses. Right now, it doesn't look like I'll need the expansion tank, but I still have that option later.
A friend gave me some .050 sheet metal and bent it up on his brake and shear, I got some closed-cell foam and made it all work with the two 10" SPAL fans.
Since I don't have a power steering reservoir yet, I'm running a bypass belt to only drive the water pump and alternator.
I also have the exhaust taken care of. With the spintech headers and 3" Y-pipe (containing both upstream sensors at the flanges and a wideband at the merge), it goes directly to a 3" Loudvalves boost-activated cutout, then a 3" Flowmaster catalytic converter, then necks down to the existing 2.5" pipe, two downstreams, the 2.5" 12" glasspack, then over the frame to a tire dump.
The first time I tried to start it, it acted like the battery was completely dead. So i got a new battery (old one was stamped 2015), tried to start it a couple weeks ago, and it did basically the same thing. Did some troubleshooting, and was getting 4 volts to the start and 10 at the battery.
After doing some troubleshooting, it was determined to be a grounding issue. At the time, I had a #10 going between both cylinder heads, a #10 from the top starter bolt to the driver side head, and a #10 from each cylinder head to the firewall studs.
So I picked up some 1/0 wire and lugs. I replaced the #2 ground strap from battery to rear frame with #1/0, I ran a new, dedicated #1/0 from the rear frame to the K-member, and added a strap from the bottom starter bolt to the K-member. I also replaced the stock #4 starter wire with a #1/0.
Things got better, and I was at least able to start it and make noise. I didn't have the base tune in it, so it was dead fat rich with the 60# injectors and 2.5 bar MAP sensor, when programmed for 23# and 1-bar.
I currently have several spools of #14 wire on the way, as well as a 25ft spool of #2/0 red wire. I'm going to see if I can get some short pieces of #2/0 red and black as well.
My plan is to re-route the #4 alternator wire from the cutoff switch, and instead go directly to the battery. That will shorten that wire up by 6 feet, and free up some room at the switch.
I'm then going to replace the main run of #2 going from the PDC to the cutoff switch with #2/0. it will be tricky with such a stiff wire, but I will make it work.
Then, I will replace the #2 from battery to switch with #2/0. I may also replace that #1/0 from PDC to starter with #2/0 at some point. only because it's black instead of red right now.
Then, I will replace that #1/0 from battery to frame with #2/0, and same with the ground strap from starter to K-member.
That will make the entire starter loop be #2/0, except the main ground path, which will be #1/0 in parallel with metal chassis.
I'm also going to add a #2 ground strap from the front frame to the rear frame.
I'm also going to run the ground wire from the fuel pump to a better chassis ground.
I'm also going to run a ground strap from my electrical panel to the same chassis ground as the fuel pump.
I'm also going to run the power and ground for the onboard air compressor (#12), replace the #18 water pump wiring with #14, and replace the #18 fan wiring with #12.
I don't have an electric water pump setup picked out yet, as I'm debating how/where to plumb it that would be most effective. Leading thought right now is to suck from the bottom hose, pushing to the heater return hose. That would push coolant through the heater core and down the front of the intake manifold, and also down the water pump. It wouldn't help alot with cooling the block itself while sitting, but once the engine was restarted, the mechanical pump would then be pushing cooled water through the block. Until I go to a pierburg/BMW setup, I'm not sure I could ask for more without running no thermostat and blocking the bypass ports on manifold and mechanical pump. In which case, It would still flow through the upper hose rather than the block.
Right now, I have a base tune in it, but cant start it until oil temp is back above 50F due to the 50wt break-in oil.
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