Another build thread + Racing Updates

Whizzer

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Geeze!! The hood is sticking up and needs adjustment and no antenna for the radio. How's he gonna drive that thing? No tunes ......................... :idunno:
 

Magnethead

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He and his dad are in Oklahoma for Rocky Mountain Race week
His Dakota truck was teched in and he's ready to race it.
Track is going hot in about 30 minutes.

What an interesting name for an event in OK, which I recall as ending well short of the Rockies.

Geeze!! The hood is sticking up and needs adjustment and no antenna for the radio. How's he gonna drive that thing? No tunes ......................... :idunno:

Dad stayed home. I ran solo-ish. Had a couple local friends that got in as well, so hung with them all week.

I just got home at 7:30 AM after a 4 hour nap at a rest stop.

The engine makes its own music.

RMRW runs in the Colorado and Kansas region every summer for the last 10 or so years. Last year they added a second event in September for the Kansas-Oklahoma-Texas region.

Finished the week 20th in class. Logged a touch over 1,000 miles while racing at 4 tracks in 5 days.

Day 1 - Oklahoma City, OK - 13.276
Day 2 - Dallas, TX - 13.124
Day 3 - Tulsa, OK - 13.121
Day 4 - Arkansas City, KS - 13.70 (track was ****)
Day 5 - Oklahoma City - 13.366
5-Day average: 13.3174 (good for 20th place on a 13.0 index)

I made a bonsai run at the very end, went 11.956 @ 114.05 at 8.5 pounds of boost. Truck weighs 4400 pounds with me in it. Empty weights are 2470 front, 1740 rear.
 
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Magnethead

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drained the oil - had a brassy look to it but dad's not concerned considering the number of miles - probably the brass distributor bushing. no copper, and the oil filter has zero metal in it.

Took the LF shock off and I'm within 1/8" of bottoming out the shock, it's riding on the metal bump-stops. So I need to do something with the springs. Shooting an email to Landrum.

Have tried to reach out to FTI about re-stalling the converter yesterday. Looks like getting a hold of the guy I need may be a chore.

Going to relocate the battery from front of bed to back of bed. Also going to add a second battery.

Going to look into getting a roll bar put in the cab. (I've known this would happen and have a rough idea already).

Going to look into changing seats to better accommodate a proper 5-point harness. May or may not have to remove center console.

Going to ditch the troublesome electric shifter & package in a regular one.
 

Nitro Dude

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best pass:

0060': 1.785
0330': 4.980
0660': 7.678 @ 91.11
1000': 9.998
1320': 11.956 @ 114.05

@Nitro Dude




Nice pass. Did you see that Bobby Bode qualified #3 in St Louis with his best pass ever with a 3.89 at 322 mph? It seems like it was just yesterday that I was bouncing him on my knee and pushing him around in his stroller. :)
 

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Found some 2.5" coil spacerscandidates from Supreme Suspensions, sent them an email

Heard from Justin at FTI, $400 and 3 weeks to adjust the torque converter (plus shipping)

Going to put a red top in each rear corner

Seats are going to get back-burnered

Got the new blower pulley today

Need to get a water/methanol injection system and get it plumbed in
 

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Things have been a little crazy since that last post.

Found a Rocky Mountain Race Week Sponsor that was able to do my converter re-stall in 2 weeks - for $200, and I was able to drop off and pick it up, as they are an hour from me. That made life easy.

Dad got me a different gearset for my birthday, so we pulled and rebuilt the transmission. 1.80 low gear came out, 1.98 went in. That will artificially tighten the converter in low gear, plus the ~500 rpm re-stall tightening.

I also picked up some traction bars.

All I lack is putting the exhaust Y-pipe on, then it will be track ready with ONLY the mechanical 60' improvements made (converter might make a little difference downtrack).

Then I will bring it back, change blower pulley, put the water/methanol system on it, move the battery, and add a second battery.

Did some basic diagnostics on the dragster engine with ~28 runs on this cycle. The findings?

It's scattered apart on the bench. Again.

And we still haven't found what the issue is for what we found.

But we did find some stuff messed up bad.
 

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Took the Dakota to the track this weekend. It was bitter cold and wet - 62 degrees ambient, 75% humidity (incidentally, 75 grains), 1700 feet DA.

The gear change made a huge difference. Not sure if the converter change did anything at all.

Taking these 6 year old DOT radials off and putting a 28x9 slick on. Gonna try to go back out December 4th, weather permitting.

Even on the crappy old tires, it's lifting the left front tire off the ground for just a moment. But initial traction isn't happening. Hopefully the slicks fix that.

Also need to adjust the traction bars significantly.

Best pass was 7.32 (previous 7.67)





@Nitro Dude @BobbyFord
 

Nitro Dude

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Took the Dakota to the track this weekend. It was bitter cold and wet - 62 degrees ambient, 75% humidity (incidentally, 75 grains), 1700 feet DA.

The gear change made a huge difference. Not sure if the converter change did anything at all.

Taking these 6 year old DOT radials off and putting a 28x9 slick on. Gonna try to go back out December 4th, weather permitting.

Even on the crappy old tires, it's lifting the left front tire off the ground for just a moment. But initial traction isn't happening. Hopefully the slicks fix that.

Also need to adjust the traction bars significantly.

Best pass was 7.32 (previous 7.67)





@Nitro Dude @BobbyFord

Nice job staging... you flickered the bottom bulb perfect. Big Jim would have been proud of you. But, it did look like you rolled a little before you hit the gas and that would have threw the whole run off in a nitro car. :)
 

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Nice job staging... you flickered the bottom bulb perfect. Big Jim would have been proud of you. But, it did look like you rolled a little before you hit the gas and that would have threw the whole run off in a nitro car. :)
The crosspin in the differential has about 1/2 turn of driveshaft slop in it. The trans itself doesn't seem to have any creep in it, fortunately. I can't remember if I took an intentional bite or not when it flickered.

The pro tree is hard to concentrate on. Trying to start the recorder, stage, set the brake, swap feet, then let go - is alot to go on in only a couple of seconds. Same with using a delay box on long tree / top bulb.

I like the long tree / bottom bulb much better.

Picked up the 28x9 Pro Bracket Radials at Summit today. Tried to fit the metal stems in the wheels, no go. Will have to figure something out to get a socket on them, or grind the wheel.
 

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Got the stems in the wheels yesterday (channel-locks and a screwdriver, but working on grinding down a socket for long term needs), and got them mounted and balanced today. Also changed the traction bar configuration.

I need to work on:

Mount the water-methanol injection system pump
Move the data logger and wideband to a rocker switch instead of ignition
Move the primary battery
Add a second battery
Adjust the band
Make the front loop crossmember
Make the front loop transmission tie
Make the front loop attachment points
Make the exhaust tie strap

I want to test on December 4th or 5th ideally. Maybe not with all the changes fixed, but start working that direction.
 

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Been crawling around under the truck this week. Got the front driveshaft loop all done and driveshaft back in.

Figured out how to run the battery cables for the combined adding a battery & moving the existing battery. Also looked at my anchoring options.

I have a general idea for where to put the methanol injection pump, on the carrier bearing crossmember. Going to put the tank over/in front of the left rear fender.

As much as I really want the air compressor to be behind the axle, I am not sure it will be feasible. I found out the Viair compressors are not rated for "wet duty", so I am apprehensive to put it under the right rear bed corner like I was going to. I'd have to make a pretty big shield to keep it from getting coated in debris and spray. The entire back of the truck already has a layer of burnout rubber. It's also supposed to be mounted upright and in a well ventilated place.

My second thought was to mount it to the shock crossmember, but there's not really enough room for that without adding alot of structure.

So i may just put the compressor and tank where the battery is now. The compressor is 11 pounds, figure the tank is 4, call it 15 total. The battery is 38 pounds. So I'll still be adding 38 pounds to the left rear and moving 23 pounds behind the right rear. I can put both up high and leave the bed clear for putting supplies under. Also have to remember that I'll likely have roll cage bars going through the front of the bed, too.

I need to move the logger and wideband over to a rocker switch and make the tiebar for the exhaust.
 

Magnethead

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I need to work on:

Mount the water-methanol injection system pump
Move the data logger and wideband to a rocker switch instead of ignition
Move the primary battery
Add a second battery
Adjust the band
Make the front loop crossmember
Make the front loop transmission tie
Make the front loop attachment points
Make the exhaust tie strap
Locate two camera mounting points


Need to adjust the band tomorrow night before putting it on the trailer.

Otherwise, ready for Saturday.
 

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Talked to the fab guy that did my intercooler today. He's going to build a coolant expansion tank for me, so I can solve the cooling issue I have properly. (OK, not perfectly properly, but way better than it is now).

Went out to test and tune during a bracket race on Saturday. Entered No-Box (Transbrake) and Sportsman (Footbrake). Apparently it was my night, because I did everything possible wrong, and still kept going rounds in Sportsman.

TT#1 for both classes was on Tune Revision #009. The truck was slower than expected, so I go to put Tune #008 back in for TT #2 of both classes. Dakota battery is dead, left the electric water pump on. Go to jump it off the ram, and the Ram's battery is dead from running the power inverter for my laptop to charge. Borrowed the battery charger from the friend i was parked next to to get the Dakota fired, drove it around then was able to put Tune #008 in it. In doing so, it got hot again. At this point they called No-Box to the staging lanes. I left it running in the staging lanes, making it even hotter, and by the time i'm at the front, they shut me off because the overflow tank is blowing coolant out it's vent.

Borrowed a screw driver there under the bridge, grabbed a bottle from a trash can, and emptied the overflow tank on the spot. Fired it back up, made the run as last car in class, then came right back around to be last pair of sportsman (only 5 pairs). IT was REALLY hot now, even with WP and fans running. By the time I got parked, the windshield was fogging from the heat differential. OBD logging shows it hit 110C/230F. It's a 20 pound system (227*), so i was right on the edge of steaming.

It slowed down even more, the heat not helping, so I put Tune #009 back in and left it in for the night.

My reaction times ranged from unspeakaby/embarrassingly horrible, to 0.008.

I lost first round of No-Box, bought back for the test run, lost there.

Sportsman Round 1 I was terrible on the tree, but the other car took 7 tenths of stripe to got 2 tenths under the dial while I dropped when i knew I wasn't getting there (7.92 on a 7.50). Shouldn't have got the win, but they gave it to me.
Note: 4 of the 5 losing cars bought back in, taking the field from 10 to 9 cars for second round.
Sportsman Round 2 I was 0.008 on the tree to the other guy's .003 red. I was almost 2 tenths slow from the dial (7.68 on a 7.50). Shouldn't have got the win, but they gave it to me.
Sportsman Round 3 I was .045 on the tree to their .084, but they went into tire spin immediately. I knew I was fast and needed to shed ET, around 500' I got on the binders hard enough to unload the rear tires and it start to try to wag on me. Went through the stripe really unstable at a whole 73 MPH - I shed 18 MPH to go 7.66 on a 7.65 dial. Shouldn't have won that one, but I'd rather be lucky than good. But being good helps. It was on a 7.5x pass.
Sportsman Round 4 I was terrible on the tree again, but the other guy was .020 red. I went out the back door, 7.45 on a 7.50 dial. I should have been toast, but they gave it to me.
Sportsman Final Round I am terrible on the tree again, but my opponent goes .030 red. I run it out the back door, 7.46 on a 7.50 dial. I should have been toast, but they gave it to me.

It was just my night. I think the truck is simply so loud that it throws off the opponent and they go red. That's the only excuse I can think of to have 3 red lights in 5 rounds, and the other 2 were simply the other driver doing a bad job with otherwise winnable rounds.


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Nitro Dude

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Good job buddy. You will get more consistent on the tree with more and more laps under your belt. You definitely need to get that heating problem fixed. You don't want any fluids to get under your tires while on a pass.
 

Magnethead

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Good job buddy. You will get more consistent on the tree with more and more laps under your belt. You definitely need to get that heating problem fixed. You don't want any fluids to get under your tires while on a pass.
The transmission vent doesn't have a tank, either. Need to add one of those, too.

The block is half filled and radiator is half-height. I knew I'd be close on cooling. But I think the expansion tank will go a long ways towards fixing the issue. Right now the coolant is pushing out but not recovering in. The expansion tank will fix that. But I really need to get the fitting for the expansion tank swapped with the upper hose - there is a steam bubble building up at the top of the radiator with no escape until I open the bleed valve on the expansion tank fitting. But that requires pulling the radiator, flushing/cleaning it, and cutting/welding the tank to swap the fittings.

A guy on dodge forum also pointed out that I should add a divider blade between the two fans, so they don't pull vortices on eachother.
 

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I took out some of the 1/2" foam from the fan shroud and added some 3/4" foam, including a vertical strip between the fans.

Something I have learned from talking to AFCO, Mezeire, and some mopar folks:

  • The factory water passages are ripe for air bubbles. The rear manifold steam bleeds are an absolute must, and will even benefit a traditional street vehicle. But getting one to clear the distributor is a lesson in futility.
  • The factory 00+ top hose fill is a horrible, horrible idea. A cooling system should never be filled from the high pressure side, always fill at the water pump inlet. That's how most traditional radiators are set up.
  • A 16AN hose clears the fuel rails and alternator nicely. The ID of 16AN fittings are 3/4". Contrary to popular belief, that's just fine. Especially considering the inlet ID of the Davies water pump is 1-1/4".
  • The thermal reduction suction power of water isn't what you would expect, and alot of radiator caps seal poorly. Even a .010" metal shim can be night and day difference in a cap sealing. Crimping the hooks is more of a band-aid. The recovery tank needs to always be 1/2 full cold, and be at about the same height as the middle of the radiator, or higher.

With that said, I had the radiator converted to 16AN, and also added the steam and drain ports. My fab guy also made the expansion tank, which plumbs to the fitting next to the lower hose.

In the meantime, I've also been working on the new tongue for the 16ft flatbed trailer. It's not a big priority as long as the coupler on it now doesn't come apart.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/r4wgLwDGEVHk8Ly16

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/6qZMAgopMrVTCGwF7

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/5bvHRT8iKGuWgEFc6

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/B5oVQzQynL9Gp75r8

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/screqyxEQQzRZtBs8

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Magnethead

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It's been a minute since I updated this thread. Things have been absolutely balls to the wall this year. I've been active 7 days a week for the last 8-9 weeks now.

1/30 Dragster test session
2/03 Michael Narx Podcast as guest
2/26 Baton Rouge race
3/05 Girlfriend
3/06 Purchased Trailer
3/08 Barndominium
3/12 Got race truck DOT inspected
3/19 Dallas Race
3/26 Okla City race
3/29 Got race truck DOT registered
4/02 dropped off Ram for engine repair
4/03 Barndominium
4/9 Houston race
4/14 Trailer Sheriff Inspection
4/16 Girlfriend
4/23 Houston race

That's 9 straight weeks of either working on a friend's barndominium, working on the race truck, working on products/projects I'm building, or with the Girlfriend. Most days I nap from 2:30 or 3AM to 7AM anymore. I'm "working" well over 120 hours a week.

I've stripped the interior aside of the dash, removed all my wiring, and started over from scratch with all new relay panels and layout. I designed and assembled the new relay panels myself.

The seats were a fiasco, I had to raise them up an inch and move them inboard an inch. Finished the passenger seat last night.

Today I got the shifter mounted. I'm ditching the electric shift and going back to traditional cable. Hoping to weld the cable bracket on Saturday; going to the barndominium on Sunday.

Tomorrow I hope to finish the battery isolator. If I'm lucky, I might make some headway on the switch panel.
 

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