Where we finished for the weekend...
Another build thread + Racing Updates
- Thread starter Magnethead
- Start date
- Status
Piston rings are filed.
New rod bearings came in today
Dragster is unloaded to get ready for next weekend
Procharger mock-up assembly is complete
Many loose ends are coming together....
Also, here is the procharger mounting bolt pattern that seems to not be published anywhere online.
Top to bottom, measuring horizontal spread:
4.975
5.536
4.650
1.810
I did not measure vertical spreads. Oops.
I cut the center oval opening in the board first. I started small and slowly worked my way up until it was snug.
I then used 5/16 and 3/8 Transfer Screws threaded into the procharger to mark their location in the board. I had the tip of each sticking up about 1/4", and tapped the board with a hammer until I had a solid impression from each screw. I then measured the in/in and out/out dimension of head impression (the screws have a point, then a hex) to get an average value, then I eyeballed the center point location. The numbers concurred pretty well.
I then drilled the holes to the appropriate size (5/16 or 3/8) and ran the bolts through.
Then, using a framing square, I made several many tick marks (at least 12-15) around the volute chamber to mark it's perimeter on the board. I also traced the perimeter of the gearbox for the sake of reference.
I then separated the volute from the gearbox and aligned it with my tick marks on the board, and traced it's perimeter. I then notated the location of the 1/4-20 threaded holes in the volute on the board, and drilled them out.
Once those were drilled and I verified that everything lined up using 3" 1/4-20 bolts, I countersunk the holes on the backside with a 1/2" drillbit so that the surface can be flat when placed in the fixture.
I'll put the fixture on the V6, then put the board and volute on, clamp them together, and trace out my mounting options onto the aluminum by tracing the board's cutout. Might happen this weekend, hard to say.
New rod bearings came in today
Dragster is unloaded to get ready for next weekend
Procharger mock-up assembly is complete
Many loose ends are coming together....
Also, here is the procharger mounting bolt pattern that seems to not be published anywhere online.
Top to bottom, measuring horizontal spread:
4.975
5.536
4.650
1.810
I did not measure vertical spreads. Oops.
I cut the center oval opening in the board first. I started small and slowly worked my way up until it was snug.
I then used 5/16 and 3/8 Transfer Screws threaded into the procharger to mark their location in the board. I had the tip of each sticking up about 1/4", and tapped the board with a hammer until I had a solid impression from each screw. I then measured the in/in and out/out dimension of head impression (the screws have a point, then a hex) to get an average value, then I eyeballed the center point location. The numbers concurred pretty well.
I then drilled the holes to the appropriate size (5/16 or 3/8) and ran the bolts through.
Then, using a framing square, I made several many tick marks (at least 12-15) around the volute chamber to mark it's perimeter on the board. I also traced the perimeter of the gearbox for the sake of reference.
I then separated the volute from the gearbox and aligned it with my tick marks on the board, and traced it's perimeter. I then notated the location of the 1/4-20 threaded holes in the volute on the board, and drilled them out.
Once those were drilled and I verified that everything lined up using 3" 1/4-20 bolts, I countersunk the holes on the backside with a 1/2" drillbit so that the surface can be flat when placed in the fixture.
I'll put the fixture on the V6, then put the board and volute on, clamp them together, and trace out my mounting options onto the aluminum by tracing the board's cutout. Might happen this weekend, hard to say.
Last edited:
So I did a thing.
Ordered the following from BruteSpeed:
ATI DM002I-004 Idler Shaft
DM002I-077 IDLER SHAFT
ATI DC004A-012 3" IDLR PULLEY-12 RIB
DP400I-12DATI 12 Rib Pulleys (Standard, flush with shoulders)
I also ordered a Dayco belt tensioner from Advance Auto, and used a 25% code to pay a more reasonable price.
Dayco has a few 12R sizes for me to target:
5120477: 47.72" $39
5120483: 48.35" $NA
5120570: 57.01" $39
5120640: 63.98" $20
5120646: 64.57" $NA
5120738: 73.75" $49
5120783: 78.30" $45
5120788: 78.74" $32
5120843: 84.25" $63
5120852: 85.25", $62
5120858: 85.83" $53
5120865: 86.50" $41
5120870: 87.01" $25
5120873: 87.25" $38
5120903: 90.25" $42
5120910: 91.00" $40
5120919: 91.93" $34
5120978: 97.75" $50
5120980: 98.00 $55
5120985: 98.50" $41
5121040: 104.0" $37
5121050: 105.0" $64
5121140: 113.98" $59
Gates also has 12 rib options - http://www.gatesracing.com/assets/Ga...st%20LORES.pdf
55.95
59.4
60.59
61.22
62.08
64.07
64.97
65.5
65.99
66.5
66.98
67.5
68
70.23
81.46
84.23
86.36
87.82
89.12
90.31
92.5
93.19
96.41
97.54
103.94
Ordered the following from BruteSpeed:
ATI DM002I-004 Idler Shaft
DM002I-077 IDLER SHAFT
ATI DC004A-012 3" IDLR PULLEY-12 RIB
DP400I-12DATI 12 Rib Pulleys (Standard, flush with shoulders)
I also ordered a Dayco belt tensioner from Advance Auto, and used a 25% code to pay a more reasonable price.
Dayco has a few 12R sizes for me to target:
5120477: 47.72" $39
5120483: 48.35" $NA
5120570: 57.01" $39
5120640: 63.98" $20
5120646: 64.57" $NA
5120738: 73.75" $49
5120783: 78.30" $45
5120788: 78.74" $32
5120843: 84.25" $63
5120852: 85.25", $62
5120858: 85.83" $53
5120865: 86.50" $41
5120870: 87.01" $25
5120873: 87.25" $38
5120903: 90.25" $42
5120910: 91.00" $40
5120919: 91.93" $34
5120978: 97.75" $50
5120980: 98.00 $55
5120985: 98.50" $41
5121040: 104.0" $37
5121050: 105.0" $64
5121140: 113.98" $59
Gates also has 12 rib options - http://www.gatesracing.com/assets/Ga...st%20LORES.pdf
55.95
59.4
60.59
61.22
62.08
64.07
64.97
65.5
65.99
66.5
66.98
67.5
68
70.23
81.46
84.23
86.36
87.82
89.12
90.31
92.5
93.19
96.41
97.54
103.94
Last edited:
My body hurts. It was a busy day. 10AM to midnight. I'll let the photos do the talking and I'll explain it all later...
A lot has gone on in the last 2 weeks since the last update. Put the pistons in the block, found the rod bolts hitting the block, clearanced the block, then went back to the dragster. Won the Mid-West Pro Mod Series race in Tulsa. Received the pulleys from Brute Speed, got the tensioner from Advance (stacking discount codes FTW), got a power steering pump from Steerco AGR Performance, I'll have new power steering hoses from Orme Brothers on Monday, the Spintech Port Plates came in from Josh Haeusser, and I also had Josh cut me a new crank hub adapter. I took the idler pulley spacer over to Mike Keith Enterprises to have it lathed down to fit properly.
I also refined the CAD drawing a little further. I'll be sending the files to Josh to cut and machine as well once I have them finalized.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dVrwOsTm-5VDlc2UXEPiw-3IJWuysl2V9qufv7lxX_rcJxEbeDRzRYNXMMguwivwCHcjOKFLuMoP6g8cOWEl5B5Z74KmlYmF_6QNJppZoFmiJswdfC9pCVYVTV88IuMl1y0tPSytzAa-KKZ45JnVduZifScxvSNUtau0IGuaEcAyNFu3yqY7DO8URospOihdRn5fS3YuMkgxAc_buPuhLStEzq-n5BLgjWTFok-TNUfHY6lXt5sDGPv4B9Tw2oWdwsiEVGO7ffmuTt7JCeGKp3RORpwyghcGPndna178q0vHor-SC05e1BNzmJGwlb1ZB_0T7B_Wp1jfwoV5I97BwgD7sdclBGeRM3TONWlynERsXrT4JgU3kXRGiiUOF8nIuJz76r_LDPoooA9bJ6pUlhhUGe4pY78K6tB-8uy4plbQQXOUdPj2ikfnHYpZdGdANZilfpVAzuOMBwG9SJaI7B_ErG_XmZMt2pbOyUR72dKMbyv-spCOXYZGPp1B-ZOoyZsxg2QL9-oQ8a1c87zUYlzwgabzSiY0wUhed0tbk8wVtW_5hacYdxqOHo1MlTPoYRvaujTk3-RNSSqG4r0WmEm302V4OZPOG_E0x2wFMl9z7cFuQTESO-r0xfn06o7pMzYQukHNYvvmkwTycR4aMrd2Qyb4kIs=w463-h822-no
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FbSH7MFu11MVMLpjWYDdrwaHJ6MDy665lJx0dd3xuF-dfwVJKALd0ZPbmqruLU0RaAhUcFzEZBzlSNGcLHRj3Z4NJsWefihaCWZ-LhiYWxpPXi0Synv0HMIcvS2J3Bygz50gNfbah1cMv7CWf0c6efHCKpCLKUBO_pQMv56fG7_oP_YNaX5P38CQXY--i1FpV_Ij5JBJlva18Ouc1T4Lhz1fzOxv0kMyBPABGyRa3qeSTCFWuASHxyJQottJQnUNLrwVMWokK7AzORjDFxWHV0drjcF7aDECxju5NoWmPlKleEqK5tbPb28lsYn8485mteAMieh2ANtmfoDTDvPATlyv25Igt4StYybnptrBaNCGN3WpNFeZbhiVmP_0bc6uGvjVYqIRuCROO2CZwpt2YRdjkItMlFYYrgtp-21_Dtb8KJv-B5tpbtZHm0iWWQ_oL0EF5jheYcVA9rTZxhoVurXsLvuehNH9UT2qYSNszgk1yYiaZMbEfJDFnMwr0_VMUKFa7Y4UPTT0pSwjvQkrfX6xgGRP6-qj8TeMr5fiauiGJYGa5o65B2AUVdXvx5MvGsyPalHwwIKXr7AwhwYMrusxgNnx70iEm_CVJqCBhVXmV6VPfT9BvuJULolvUDvhzQ6WwQgHfVHM5xl7lFmSd2sI8a83Hzs=w463-h822-no
I also refined the CAD drawing a little further. I'll be sending the files to Josh to cut and machine as well once I have them finalized.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dVrwOsTm-5VDlc2UXEPiw-3IJWuysl2V9qufv7lxX_rcJxEbeDRzRYNXMMguwivwCHcjOKFLuMoP6g8cOWEl5B5Z74KmlYmF_6QNJppZoFmiJswdfC9pCVYVTV88IuMl1y0tPSytzAa-KKZ45JnVduZifScxvSNUtau0IGuaEcAyNFu3yqY7DO8URospOihdRn5fS3YuMkgxAc_buPuhLStEzq-n5BLgjWTFok-TNUfHY6lXt5sDGPv4B9Tw2oWdwsiEVGO7ffmuTt7JCeGKp3RORpwyghcGPndna178q0vHor-SC05e1BNzmJGwlb1ZB_0T7B_Wp1jfwoV5I97BwgD7sdclBGeRM3TONWlynERsXrT4JgU3kXRGiiUOF8nIuJz76r_LDPoooA9bJ6pUlhhUGe4pY78K6tB-8uy4plbQQXOUdPj2ikfnHYpZdGdANZilfpVAzuOMBwG9SJaI7B_ErG_XmZMt2pbOyUR72dKMbyv-spCOXYZGPp1B-ZOoyZsxg2QL9-oQ8a1c87zUYlzwgabzSiY0wUhed0tbk8wVtW_5hacYdxqOHo1MlTPoYRvaujTk3-RNSSqG4r0WmEm302V4OZPOG_E0x2wFMl9z7cFuQTESO-r0xfn06o7pMzYQukHNYvvmkwTycR4aMrd2Qyb4kIs=w463-h822-no
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FbSH7MFu11MVMLpjWYDdrwaHJ6MDy665lJx0dd3xuF-dfwVJKALd0ZPbmqruLU0RaAhUcFzEZBzlSNGcLHRj3Z4NJsWefihaCWZ-LhiYWxpPXi0Synv0HMIcvS2J3Bygz50gNfbah1cMv7CWf0c6efHCKpCLKUBO_pQMv56fG7_oP_YNaX5P38CQXY--i1FpV_Ij5JBJlva18Ouc1T4Lhz1fzOxv0kMyBPABGyRa3qeSTCFWuASHxyJQottJQnUNLrwVMWokK7AzORjDFxWHV0drjcF7aDECxju5NoWmPlKleEqK5tbPb28lsYn8485mteAMieh2ANtmfoDTDvPATlyv25Igt4StYybnptrBaNCGN3WpNFeZbhiVmP_0bc6uGvjVYqIRuCROO2CZwpt2YRdjkItMlFYYrgtp-21_Dtb8KJv-B5tpbtZHm0iWWQ_oL0EF5jheYcVA9rTZxhoVurXsLvuehNH9UT2qYSNszgk1yYiaZMbEfJDFnMwr0_VMUKFa7Y4UPTT0pSwjvQkrfX6xgGRP6-qj8TeMr5fiauiGJYGa5o65B2AUVdXvx5MvGsyPalHwwIKXr7AwhwYMrusxgNnx70iEm_CVJqCBhVXmV6VPfT9BvuJULolvUDvhzQ6WwQgHfVHM5xl7lFmSd2sI8a83Hzs=w463-h822-no
So dad and I have now learned that there is nothing more kick-in-the-nuts baptism-by-fire than building a mopar. For synopsis thus far,
1) Main caps need to be done perfect for the girdle...and fly cut and honed properly to fit the crank
2) The block needs to be clearanced for any kind of real connecting rod clearance with 4" stroke
3) Always double check valve relief placement
4) There are 2 kinds of camshafts: The kind that fit right, and the kind that fit right when attachment is modified.
5) There are 8 total oil galley plugs. You can't see 2 of them. 5 thread in, 3 press in.
6) The oil pump and main cap bolt are conflicts of space
7) Windage tray and main girdle are conflicts of space
8) No matter which head stud kit you buy, the first one won't fit. (Odd are, the second won't either)
9) If something is easy, you're doing it wrong
10) #9 also applies to things fitting on first try.
1) Main caps need to be done perfect for the girdle...and fly cut and honed properly to fit the crank
2) The block needs to be clearanced for any kind of real connecting rod clearance with 4" stroke
3) Always double check valve relief placement
4) There are 2 kinds of camshafts: The kind that fit right, and the kind that fit right when attachment is modified.
5) There are 8 total oil galley plugs. You can't see 2 of them. 5 thread in, 3 press in.
6) The oil pump and main cap bolt are conflicts of space
7) Windage tray and main girdle are conflicts of space
8) No matter which head stud kit you buy, the first one won't fit. (Odd are, the second won't either)
9) If something is easy, you're doing it wrong
10) #9 also applies to things fitting on first try.
No real news *yet* for this week. Been a little slow while I work on other priorities.
This coming week, and the week after, should have some more plentiful updates on the truck. I'll be getting a little dirty in the near future.
I did spend Saturday working on a friend's Dakota. Wired in a trans temp gauge from ISSPRO using their patented Clipsense bracket, which doesn't require cutting the cooler line or drilling into the transmission pan.
Meanwhile, dad drained the oil from the dragster and pulled the oil filter off, only to find a bunch of aluminum in it. Found a little more in the oil pan when we pulled it off. Examined the piston bottoms, rods, and cam with nothing found, even took the oil pump apart since it's billet aluminum. Timing set also looks good. Going to go ahead and cycle these rod bearings out since they have 34 runs on them, and use that opportunity to make sure there's no issues we don't know about. The oil pressure readings have been a little funny lately, but still above 50PSI when it drops.
This coming week, and the week after, should have some more plentiful updates on the truck. I'll be getting a little dirty in the near future.
I did spend Saturday working on a friend's Dakota. Wired in a trans temp gauge from ISSPRO using their patented Clipsense bracket, which doesn't require cutting the cooler line or drilling into the transmission pan.
Meanwhile, dad drained the oil from the dragster and pulled the oil filter off, only to find a bunch of aluminum in it. Found a little more in the oil pan when we pulled it off. Examined the piston bottoms, rods, and cam with nothing found, even took the oil pump apart since it's billet aluminum. Timing set also looks good. Going to go ahead and cycle these rod bearings out since they have 34 runs on them, and use that opportunity to make sure there's no issues we don't know about. The oil pressure readings have been a little funny lately, but still above 50PSI when it drops.
Worked on the dragster some more after Corbin left on Saturday, and worked on my engine some on Sunday. Put the 2 oil galley plugs back in behind the am thrust plate, and put the hughes cam snout spacer on as well.
Gonna try to get some work done on the truck this week. Have a pro-mod race this weekend, so I'll be bouncing between a pro-mod shop and our own shop this week getting the pro-mod truck ready for this weekend. It's owned by another racer, but dad and I are the brains that make it run.
Gonna try to get some work done on the truck this week. Have a pro-mod race this weekend, so I'll be bouncing between a pro-mod shop and our own shop this week getting the pro-mod truck ready for this weekend. It's owned by another racer, but dad and I are the brains that make it run.
Here is this week's update...Got alot done the last 2 days. Front and rear driveshaft loops installed, trans cooler relocate mocked up, frame drilled for the new shock crossmember, and factory shock mount on the axle cut off.
My new shocks were supposed to show up today, but apparently somewhere between Houston and my house, they came out of the box, either by nature or by force....So i received an empty box with a hole in it and got to file a claim with UPS.
My new shocks were supposed to show up today, but apparently somewhere between Houston and my house, they came out of the box, either by nature or by force....So i received an empty box with a hole in it and got to file a claim with UPS.
I buried a piece of a cut-off wheel in my arm once when a disc came apart.
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- Messages
- 26,697
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- 1,033
Buried a piece between the thumb and trigger finger of my left hand. I don't remember how many stitches but it wasn't a lotta fun.
I still haven't found the other half of the disc...one half traveled into the garage and narrowly missed the firebird. other half is AWOL. Just glad it didn't go into the aluminum fuel cell 1 foot from where I was cutting, or a fuel line.
Oh, geez. That could have been buried in your body. Be careful.
Crewed on a pro-mod (or WannaBe Pro-Mod) today. Worked with him at the end of last year and he built a whole new engine this year. Aluminum Donovan block, Kobelco 18-71 blower (yes, they really do make them that big) and other fancy stuff. He took it out a couple weekends ago and it was just a pig and wouldn't run.
The guy's not really as serious as he needs to be to run at this caliber, it's more of a social thing for him. So we come in and make (stuff) work. Found valvetrain issues when we got to the track, fixed those up and cleaned up the fuel system.
Make a run down the track and it's still all kinds of pissed off. Come back, look at the data recorder (which was installed on the track after last outing), 4 and 7 EGT's are way cold. Check the valve timing, and it's a 4/7 swap cam with 7/4 plug wires. Switch those around, and realize along the way that there's no idle check valve to establish an idle system pressure (usually 5-10 psi). No wonder it's a pain to start (plus, only 113 cranking RPM).
Anyways, it sounds happier off-idle now, so we have progress. Go up for second qualifying run, much much better burnout. Driver goes on the transbrake/2-step and suddenly there's a shower of sparks out form under the truck.
Luckily it was not from the engine, but rather the flexplate...it sheared the grade 8 converter bolts.
So our night was done, but at least we made progress and it actually had enough horsepower to do what it did. New horsepower problems....
Oh, and a bulk of the body is factory steel. 2x3 box tube chassis with glass upper hood, glass doors, and a carbon rear bed floor and tubs...but all otherwise exposed body is factory steel.
The guy's not really as serious as he needs to be to run at this caliber, it's more of a social thing for him. So we come in and make (stuff) work. Found valvetrain issues when we got to the track, fixed those up and cleaned up the fuel system.
Make a run down the track and it's still all kinds of pissed off. Come back, look at the data recorder (which was installed on the track after last outing), 4 and 7 EGT's are way cold. Check the valve timing, and it's a 4/7 swap cam with 7/4 plug wires. Switch those around, and realize along the way that there's no idle check valve to establish an idle system pressure (usually 5-10 psi). No wonder it's a pain to start (plus, only 113 cranking RPM).
Anyways, it sounds happier off-idle now, so we have progress. Go up for second qualifying run, much much better burnout. Driver goes on the transbrake/2-step and suddenly there's a shower of sparks out form under the truck.
Luckily it was not from the engine, but rather the flexplate...it sheared the grade 8 converter bolts.
So our night was done, but at least we made progress and it actually had enough horsepower to do what it did. New horsepower problems....
Oh, and a bulk of the body is factory steel. 2x3 box tube chassis with glass upper hood, glass doors, and a carbon rear bed floor and tubs...but all otherwise exposed body is factory steel.
Tuesday Update....
Still haven't found the other half of that cutting wheel.
I never learned to MIG weld in high school, only Oxy and Arc welding. We don't so much welding around here, so I've been slowly self-teaching on non-structural components of the truck, and watching youtube videos. Today was my first welds on structural components.
Got the upper crossmember welded in, the adjustable lowers welded in, then lifted the bed up, pulled the fuel level sender and got it fixed (simply a stuck float plunger), mounted the trans cooler array, then had a friend come over and help me lift the bed off. It got hung up on some of the EVAP hoses so now the driver side has a kink and bend I'm gonna have to work out of it (luckily, it's only sheet metal, easy to pull back once on truck). Once the bed was off, got the upper mounts welded in place and I cleaned up the array of hoses.
Get the bed put back on tomorrow, button everything up, and go from there. If UPS can find my lost shocks, that would be dandy too.
Still haven't found the other half of that cutting wheel.
I never learned to MIG weld in high school, only Oxy and Arc welding. We don't so much welding around here, so I've been slowly self-teaching on non-structural components of the truck, and watching youtube videos. Today was my first welds on structural components.
Got the upper crossmember welded in, the adjustable lowers welded in, then lifted the bed up, pulled the fuel level sender and got it fixed (simply a stuck float plunger), mounted the trans cooler array, then had a friend come over and help me lift the bed off. It got hung up on some of the EVAP hoses so now the driver side has a kink and bend I'm gonna have to work out of it (luckily, it's only sheet metal, easy to pull back once on truck). Once the bed was off, got the upper mounts welded in place and I cleaned up the array of hoses.
Get the bed put back on tomorrow, button everything up, and go from there. If UPS can find my lost shocks, that would be dandy too.
Quick update- Cleaned everything up, put the bed back on, looped the trans cooler lines for now, put it back out front. Still have a few small things to deal with.
Since UPS lost the Koni shocks, I'm borrowing a set of rears from another racer, and bought his old fronts. I'll slap them on tomorrow, then see what's on the docket for the weekend. Trying to hit a race on Saturday night.
While I had the bed off, I went ahead and lifted the cab as well and removed the factory fuel and EVAP lines.
Since UPS lost the Koni shocks, I'm borrowing a set of rears from another racer, and bought his old fronts. I'll slap them on tomorrow, then see what's on the docket for the weekend. Trying to hit a race on Saturday night.
While I had the bed off, I went ahead and lifted the cab as well and removed the factory fuel and EVAP lines.
DanicaFreak
She's crazy.
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- Feb 21, 2014
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love that you still have the stock magnesium wheels on. Sleeper mode engaged
They won't last forever. At some point I will swap to a ford 9" and the standard 5 lug pattern, probably go with Cragar soft 8's or similar. The only vehicles with the 6 on 4.5 pattern is the dakota/durango, viper, and Nissan Xterra. And Viper wheels require a 2" spacer to fit a dakota.
I'm just gonna lump a pile of photos here...don't feel like writing a long story. Yo neccesito dormir.
Dragster is hurt ugly bad.
At least there's no holes in the block and no fluids leaking out....
But it went from 7500 RPM to zero RPM in about 1 second.
At least there's no holes in the block and no fluids leaking out....
But it went from 7500 RPM to zero RPM in about 1 second.
Dang!!
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Damn. Keep us informed.
So after our last race in May, we found some aluminum in the oil filter. We pulled the pan off but couldn't find anything obvious. Since we had 35 runs or so on the rod bearings, we went ahead and put new ones in. The old ones had some funny wear patterns.
We make the first qualifying run on Friday night, it's set up on about a 3.90 run but only goes 3.98 . Get back and pull the onboard data recorder data, we left with about 20 pounds of boost (down from 24 nominal) and by the end of the track it was down to 12 pounds. The oil sump catch can also had a bunch of fuel in it. We thought we'd broke the blower or lost the strip seals, so we pulled the injector hat off but couldn't find anything. We took a huge amount of fuel away for Q2 thinking maybe we washed the piston rings out, hoping we hadn't pushed an intake gasket.
Go up for Q2 and the car rolls deep in the beam when dad applied the transbrake (implies something hydraulically failed in the reverse clutch of the transmission), it leaves okay, then right after the shift I hear a loud bang and it goes quiet. I thought maybe we popped the burst panel.
We get back and start troubleshooting, and the starter refuses to turn the engine over. So we think it's battery. Check it out, everything is good. Then take the turning bar and try to turn the engine over by hand...nada. 4 foot bar and it's not even budging. So we know the crank is broke, so we packed up and came home.
The best thing we ever did was add 4 LED's to the rig, wired to reverse lights. One inside each dually fender and 2 on the back of the trailer. It brightens up the driveway just enough to make the turn without falling in the ditch.
We went into the race #2 in points. Two of the top 4 did not come to this race, they went to the NHRA race in Oklahoma city. By showing up, we inherited the points lead, and the other car in the top 4 became #2, 30 points behind us. After we broke, we figured he would inherit the points lead (20 points per round win), but right before we left, he came over and said he wiped out a lifter, pushrod, rocker, and possibly cam. He was set up 3.90 to match us, and went 4.11.
So as of right now, we have a 30ish point lead over him, then another 20 back to #3 and 25 or so more to #4.
The next race is in St. Louis in a couple weeks. We're not sure what we are going to do yet to try and get this championship. We really need the show-up points and some round points.
We have the bracket 565 on a stand that could go in, but we have to fix the transmission and find a set of 4.30 gears. That engine won't tow the 3.70's. Even then it may not qualify.
@mike honcho did swing by for a bit on Friday.
We got up Saturday morning, pulled the pan off, and found the break behind the #1 main. We had to use a cutting wheel to un-wedge the crank so that we could turn it enough to get the converter bolts out. We pulled the blower off and dropped the trans out, called it a day, and headed to the track.
Our friend showed up in his procharged dragster, so we helped him. It just so happens the qualifying sheet ended up that he had us first round, which was a competition bye, then second round would be a ladder bye. So our friend ended up in the Semi's, where laid down a dead-on run to get into the final. In the final he ran 4.087 on a 4.09 dial while the other lane broke out by more.
So we did find our way to the winner circle. Just not with our car.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vf7O3a7NpKhOLZN-OagUyKKMy3rGJ04afUPjcPZRvuddsQkPKXLykMb_JrXoQSJUYs0yF7nvT3yosX9SsQdJmTSf9xSae0O56pZTRHxqfh7k8rvQy5kbVsoMd_DYJpyx9uDs-S7U3U9****FM4EYhjTD8oq5z0bh7AiKxpQkpa2ibDVBTY0hrZ1eWzpbGcK0JQ7nZqmaYHLFqtoyGjDS6FYBsXlG5DHg91Zdp6fsADMRQs1aAEFqIehQ_SKckPpr0n0sJ2XrrrEv22zinuf1zmT2dSGFOAqKMSsRAXlGGZTYm_Ho_5PKSFrktM0c9c02Gida1TAN897XMr2eYXPqyt4iBF28lpFY53F_3Vj5W0jn281cbjw4Y8FjgQ5rLgfdFA8ddFYlZ2onsZIx1eI7tq5lztGzWtI1KrRFy0SVIT0VXathIx9BEft7V_oZ_ZZGAzLHivS3DNpUYN_pGMqcfY6ThiaAD1bYewaC3FAeO1vky_DIaJ417SXWLJl0gh3ssYbqULX0ph6HsBsmd2VN5z6uXEZuyF7Qu9TP-kcz4YhQl9fc-ZfJYjU2t7peA2mk8jCQz_btpuKb0uGc2dT4kL1GtzCYx0nnh2Y9LAadRMIUPTl1B7xp8LK8--PjLMB6Szdszt48zzd-JIsh_DpIc61ieJs5ohA=w1451-h816-no
We make the first qualifying run on Friday night, it's set up on about a 3.90 run but only goes 3.98 . Get back and pull the onboard data recorder data, we left with about 20 pounds of boost (down from 24 nominal) and by the end of the track it was down to 12 pounds. The oil sump catch can also had a bunch of fuel in it. We thought we'd broke the blower or lost the strip seals, so we pulled the injector hat off but couldn't find anything. We took a huge amount of fuel away for Q2 thinking maybe we washed the piston rings out, hoping we hadn't pushed an intake gasket.
Go up for Q2 and the car rolls deep in the beam when dad applied the transbrake (implies something hydraulically failed in the reverse clutch of the transmission), it leaves okay, then right after the shift I hear a loud bang and it goes quiet. I thought maybe we popped the burst panel.
We get back and start troubleshooting, and the starter refuses to turn the engine over. So we think it's battery. Check it out, everything is good. Then take the turning bar and try to turn the engine over by hand...nada. 4 foot bar and it's not even budging. So we know the crank is broke, so we packed up and came home.
The best thing we ever did was add 4 LED's to the rig, wired to reverse lights. One inside each dually fender and 2 on the back of the trailer. It brightens up the driveway just enough to make the turn without falling in the ditch.
We went into the race #2 in points. Two of the top 4 did not come to this race, they went to the NHRA race in Oklahoma city. By showing up, we inherited the points lead, and the other car in the top 4 became #2, 30 points behind us. After we broke, we figured he would inherit the points lead (20 points per round win), but right before we left, he came over and said he wiped out a lifter, pushrod, rocker, and possibly cam. He was set up 3.90 to match us, and went 4.11.
So as of right now, we have a 30ish point lead over him, then another 20 back to #3 and 25 or so more to #4.
The next race is in St. Louis in a couple weeks. We're not sure what we are going to do yet to try and get this championship. We really need the show-up points and some round points.
We have the bracket 565 on a stand that could go in, but we have to fix the transmission and find a set of 4.30 gears. That engine won't tow the 3.70's. Even then it may not qualify.
@mike honcho did swing by for a bit on Friday.
We got up Saturday morning, pulled the pan off, and found the break behind the #1 main. We had to use a cutting wheel to un-wedge the crank so that we could turn it enough to get the converter bolts out. We pulled the blower off and dropped the trans out, called it a day, and headed to the track.
Our friend showed up in his procharged dragster, so we helped him. It just so happens the qualifying sheet ended up that he had us first round, which was a competition bye, then second round would be a ladder bye. So our friend ended up in the Semi's, where laid down a dead-on run to get into the final. In the final he ran 4.087 on a 4.09 dial while the other lane broke out by more.
So we did find our way to the winner circle. Just not with our car.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vf7O3a7NpKhOLZN-OagUyKKMy3rGJ04afUPjcPZRvuddsQkPKXLykMb_JrXoQSJUYs0yF7nvT3yosX9SsQdJmTSf9xSae0O56pZTRHxqfh7k8rvQy5kbVsoMd_DYJpyx9uDs-S7U3U9****FM4EYhjTD8oq5z0bh7AiKxpQkpa2ibDVBTY0hrZ1eWzpbGcK0JQ7nZqmaYHLFqtoyGjDS6FYBsXlG5DHg91Zdp6fsADMRQs1aAEFqIehQ_SKckPpr0n0sJ2XrrrEv22zinuf1zmT2dSGFOAqKMSsRAXlGGZTYm_Ho_5PKSFrktM0c9c02Gida1TAN897XMr2eYXPqyt4iBF28lpFY53F_3Vj5W0jn281cbjw4Y8FjgQ5rLgfdFA8ddFYlZ2onsZIx1eI7tq5lztGzWtI1KrRFy0SVIT0VXathIx9BEft7V_oZ_ZZGAzLHivS3DNpUYN_pGMqcfY6ThiaAD1bYewaC3FAeO1vky_DIaJ417SXWLJl0gh3ssYbqULX0ph6HsBsmd2VN5z6uXEZuyF7Qu9TP-kcz4YhQl9fc-ZfJYjU2t7peA2mk8jCQz_btpuKb0uGc2dT4kL1GtzCYx0nnh2Y9LAadRMIUPTl1B7xp8LK8--PjLMB6Szdszt48zzd-JIsh_DpIc61ieJs5ohA=w1451-h816-no
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As bad as it is, it could have been a lot worse.
Got the rest of the engine torn down over the last 4 hours.
It did tag the exhaust valves, but the heads look otherwise okay. Can't even feel anything where the marks are, but they're still more than likely bent. $1,000 in brand new titanium valves with all of maybe 35 runs on them.
The block is our biggest concern. It took a big chunk out of the #1 saddle.
My legs/feet are killing me. I covered a solid 3 or more miles yesterday...about half of those were jogging/running.
It did tag the exhaust valves, but the heads look otherwise okay. Can't even feel anything where the marks are, but they're still more than likely bent. $1,000 in brand new titanium valves with all of maybe 35 runs on them.
The block is our biggest concern. It took a big chunk out of the #1 saddle.
My legs/feet are killing me. I covered a solid 3 or more miles yesterday...about half of those were jogging/running.
A sad sight --- a beautiful motor in pieces.
Off to Reher in the AM to see what it will take to clean up #1 main on the block. Hopefully not much.
New crank is 4K, 1K worth of valves, and 1300 in rods we were going to change over winter anyways. Plus cost to fix block.
New crank is 4K, 1K worth of valves, and 1300 in rods we were going to change over winter anyways. Plus cost to fix block.
Yikes!
Who makes the crank?
Was a Callies Magnum
Fatigue?
Blown chevy's are known to break in that spot, but usually around 150-200 runs (IE, replace next winter). Not 75.
Not sure what caused premature failure.
DanicaFreak
She's crazy.
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OMG such carnage....
on a side note those duallies are next to impossible to go through a drive through. If you make it in the tight space, the kid on the other end of the speaker cant hear ya, so you have to shut off your truck and bake in the sun.
side note#2 @Magnethead
Does your dad help you on frankentruck?
I wonder what he thinks of your project....
on a side note those duallies are next to impossible to go through a drive through. If you make it in the tight space, the kid on the other end of the speaker cant hear ya, so you have to shut off your truck and bake in the sun.
side note#2 @Magnethead
Does your dad help you on frankentruck?
I wonder what he thinks of your project....
Dually's are a pain to get around town with for sure, but they'll out-tow a SRW 1 ton all day. Plus a blow-out like we had last year, it's nice to have the redundant tire.
Most of the truck on the truck itself I do on my own. Dad just did the transmission, some of the welding, and in progress (albeit currently on hold) on the engine. All the electrical and suspension/chassis upgrades I'm doing on my own based on what others have done and made work well.
Most of the truck on the truck itself I do on my own. Dad just did the transmission, some of the welding, and in progress (albeit currently on hold) on the engine. All the electrical and suspension/chassis upgrades I'm doing on my own based on what others have done and made work well.
Took the block to Reher-Morrison this morning. They say they can fix it in about 2 weeks. Dad found a crank on a shelf from Winberg so he has our name on it (will take 2 weeks to finish to our spec), Bryant has one unclaimed that's halfway through the machining process and should be done in about 4 weeks.
Once we get word that the block is stable, we'll order the crank of choice, connecting rods, and exhaust valves.
Once we get word that the block is stable, we'll order the crank of choice, connecting rods, and exhaust valves.
mike honcho
Knuckleheads
Dang Mag. Never would have thought all that went wrong after seeing that run. Hope to see you all soon. I see Pro-Mods are out there again this weekend. May go back out there.
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How ya been Mike? Long time no see. I was in Vegas a few weeks ago and thought about ya.
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