Those dangerous, devious midnight rides back when it all began are still vivid in his mind, alive as ever, as if it were just minutes ago that he was running moonshine through the Carolina darkness, lead-footing it away from the flashing red lights of the revenuers. The original JJ—Junior Johnson, now 80, still the most iconic figure in NASCAR history—is the last remaining link between racing's outlaw past (he began hauling 'shine at 14) and its corporate present. (He personally convinced Jim Lowe, the owner of Lowe's, to enter the sport in 1955 and sponsor his car; Lowe's now backs that other JJ.) Yes, Junior Johnson is old school NASCAR personified, gritty and hard, and on this summer day he steers his 2002 black Chevy pickup through the green hills and hollows outside of Wilkesboro, N.C., where American stock car racing was born with the moonshine runners in the 1940s.